Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

My current rims have a chrome lip, and due to brake dust there has been some slight tarnishing/patchiness/staining and build up of guk on the bits of the chrome.

I can kinda scratch it off with my finger nails, and in some sections, it just looks a bit tarnished.

Tried some light polish, some meguiars products, nothing can get it off.

I am guessing its due to the brake dust because the rear wheels are completely fine, just the front rims.

It kinda looks like water marks and is not as smooth when you run your finger over the chrome lip.

Any suggestions on what I can do?

Thanks all

Edited by nuffsaid

i read somewhere about this. there really isnt anything you can do apart from getting your rims resprayed to look like new again. the best thing to do is when you have new rims is regularly clean them because its the dirt and brake dust that damages them

metho will remove the staining, but if you want to give it a go, be EXTREMELY careful and make sure you don't get any on the tyres. Put the metho on a rag, apply it directly to the stained areas and rub.

*Disclaimer: If your tyres melt, i won't take responsibility for it! :thumbsup:

If you want to try something a bit safer, have a go with some autosol.

if it's chrome, spirits shouldn't dull the finish, if you're scared of scratches, make sure you get any surface grit off first.

If you have the slightest concern about using spirits near the rubber, then try autosol first

if you can't find autosol (or don't want to spend money on something that might not work) go and raid the kitchen.

vinegar and bicarb is a very user friendly (and enviro friendly) combination for any cleaning task!

Pics of before and after?

I have this problem with one of my sets, the worst part is, the national electroplating union says no one in Oz does car wheel dipping, heaps do trucks, but none to car rims....

I put some Meguiars paint cleaner on it yesterday and rubbed the hell out of it with a terry towel. Seems to have cleared up most of the problem.

Also scratched off the really stubborn bits with my finger nail heheh

Anyone have any other good tricks?

depending on the type of chrome you have.. if it's not high quality take care not to use any abrasive products like Autosol or cutting creams... at this stage you'll need lots of elbow grease and WINDEX... and use a cotton cloth like an old T-shirt.

Yeah I think I may have already slightly scratched it, its not really noticeable anyway so I am not too fussed.

I waxed the chrome part of the rim so that the brake dust should come off easier next time.

Alot of elbow grease went into it last nite, most of it seemed to have come off.

The chrome feels very plastic-ky though, not like solid metal. seems as if there is a clearcoat on them

my point exactly..try not to let the dust build up...if it's black dust maybe you should consider changing your brake pads to Bendix Ultimates as the dust is "white" and not as harsh on chrome.

Its brown dust, that usually, if i wash my wheels once a week, comes off really easily. Problem is this time I left it on to bake too long.

My Formula Ferodo pads are just way too dusty for me, maybe on par with Ultimates, but they give off a brownish dust which is the adhesive compound in the pad material moreso than metal filings.

I have given up on finding performance pads with low dust, i think its like asking for good tyres that last a long time.

the national electroplating union says no one in Oz does car wheel dipping, heaps do trucks, but none to car rims....

Many mag manufacturers have total control over their products, which means that some multi piece rims can't be disassembled by anyone other than the manufacturer.

If this is the case with the brand mags that you have, the only option is to send them back to the manufacturer for repair/restoration work.

However, unless the finish on the plating has somehow been compromised, they wouldn't need to be re-plated.

There are heaps of places that specialise in mag wheel polishing/restoration, but after having a quick look, I couldn't find any local to you. :)

Many mag manufacturers have total control over their products, which means that some multi piece rims can't be disassembled by anyone other than the manufacturer.

If this is the case with the brand mags that you have, the only option is to send them back to the manufacturer for repair/restoration work.

However, unless the finish on the plating has somehow been compromised, they wouldn't need to be re-plated.

There are heaps of places that specialise in mag wheel polishing/restoration, but after having a quick look, I couldn't find any local to you. :)

Thanks for that mate ;)

yeah i spent a day ringing every place in Australia, no one will do them back to how they are now :O

All i can do for them, is have them polished and the middles sprayed with black (powdercoat), but thats a fair bit of hassle, i think its time for them to go

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...