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Safc/dfa/voltage Bender: Does It Remove Flatspots And R&r?

Andi

By Andi,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Andi Experienced

Andi

Posted
Posted

Hello all,

Before you tell me to search I'll let you know that I HAVE searched and there was alot of data to digest and I did but because there was so many different questions and scenerios I was abit unsure, I thought it was best to just open a new thread to make sure.

I have a small amount of mild mods to my car (turbo back exhaust, ebc, fuel pump, fmic, fpr) and I plan to keep the car this way. I really would prefer 250rwkw as I believe this would be the just right amount of power to move our cars weight, but for now I'd prefer a realiable car with less problems - as we all know the power you have the more problems you are likely to run into.

I am going to build a Jaycar DFA in a few weeks and after alot of research I believe this is my best choice as I am quite happy with the cars power at the moment but would just like to remove the small flat spot I have at 5000rpm on 12psi and if possible, but not necessary, get rid of the REAL R&R (viscous surge).

So my question: Given the amount of mods I have would an Jaycar DFA do what I want to do? That is, to remove the flat spot(s) I get, and if possibly the R&R?

Cheers,

Andy

P.S - who should I ask to tune a DFA? Or should anyone with experience tuning an SAFC/PFC easily be able to use one when given instructions on how to use it? Alot of people have built DFA's; whats the feedback recieved from tuners?

P.S.S - please don't recommend a PFC. I've already decided I won't get one until, and thats if, I get a new turbo/injectors/afm setup. And seeing how Apexi no longer are making them it might prove hard. :huh:

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

The longer you wait the harder it is going to be to buy a Power FC.

Have a look in the Stagea section and you will find my thread on using a DFA, SITC and IEBC on a Stagea. I have no R&R.

:O cheers :rofl:

PS, the standard turbo won't last long at 12psi.

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

they dont directly avoid r&r, ie: the safc doesnt have a button to disable r&r it just happens that when it voltage clamps the afm values, you end up in turn avoiding the r&r protection. safcII is now discontinued as well, so you need to go safc Neo

Andi Experienced

Andi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guy, yep I was refering to avoiding R&R. As long as the DFA can do that I'll be happy.

I can't manage to find a PFC for an R34 GTT anywhere now at all, so I'll be on this path for a while until I manage to find one or look into the ECU remaps abit further.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
I can't manage to find a PFC for an R34 GTT anywhere now at all, so I'll be on this path for a while until I manage to find one or look into the ECU remaps abit further.

Have you seen this in the For Sales section

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...amp;hl=power+FC

:wave: cheers :blink:

Andi Experienced

Andi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Because the turbine wheels are ceramic as oppose to the usual steel and as such don't take much boost/heat. The R34 compressor wheels are nylon as well.

Cheers for the link Gary but unfortunately that doesn't suit my car. It seems like the DFA is just what I'm after.

smurf80 Experienced

smurf80

Posted
Posted
Because the turbine wheels are ceramic as oppose to the usual steel and as such don't take much boost/heat. The R34 compressor wheels are nylon as well.

Cheers for the link Gary but unfortunately that doesn't suit my car. It seems like the DFA is just what I'm after.

I realise they tend to delaminate from the shaft when the temps get up but with a safe tune I dont understand why you couldnt run 12psi through it with all the support systems? Series 2 R33's have nylon compressor wheels too champ.

Cheers

Chris

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