Cylinder Head Removal... any tips?!

[GiJOr33]

Well i did a compression test today, and cylinder 1 is about 480kpa compared to the other cylinders of 780kpa. I put oil in the cylinder to form a seal to check if the rings were stuffed, but there was hardly any change in compression. So i'm thinking a valve or valve seat is buggered. If anyone knows of any other reasons why it would be low, i'm all ears! But either way, the cylinder head has to come off.

Where would i get replacement valves from if any are buggered?

Where should i get a head gasket from?

What should i look out for? I'm tipping that setting up the Timing again will be the main challenge. I'll get a new timing belt while i'm at it.

I just hope i'm not getting myself into something more than i can handle!

What would i be looking at dollar wise to pay someone else to do it?

Cheers,

Andrew

[Guest DrDrift]

Its pretty bothersome taking out a CA head, not too sure about skylines. I took the head off together with turbo and intake manifold (2 ppl). Brought the head to a builder and have tested on valve leak. It best if you get copper head gasket, good investment. If you have the right tools and have specs like torque to apply on head bolts then its pretty cheap doing it. I paid $200 for grinding the head surface, valve leak test, pressure test etc. Another $200 for Nissan Gasket kit which includes head gasket, exhaust gasket, intake manifold gasket and valve steam seal. I am not sure how much will they charge for change valve seals. So total for me is less than $500. I have got quotes from a fairly low pricing mechanic, $1000 is the min for a 4 cyclinder.

Hope that helps

[DAMQIK GTS-T]

Tip 1, Ensure you remove the 3 - 10 mm bolts before undoing the headbolts 2 are at the back of the head 1 is at the front near the vcc solidnoid.

Tip 2, remove the power steering pump bracket as it has 1 bolt that go's into the head also,

Tip 3, get yourself a long 10mm allen key socket for the head bolts or you will need to remove the camshafts.

Tip 4, setting up the timing is easy if you put the motor to TDC before removing the cambelt. With the belt cover & cas removed and the motor @ TDC you will see a dot on the cam wheel's that lines up with a mark on the back of cambelt cover.

(the back half one still bolted to the head.)

Tip 5, These tip's should see you right but they are in no pictular order.

[GiJOr33]

cool... thanks guys!

I'm still deciding what i'll do... but hopefully i don't goet myself into trouble doing it! How long did it take you guys to do?

[DAMQIK GTS-T]

2 hour two remove bout the same to replace (with the right tools) but hard to say it all depens on what happens read: bolts breaking/siezed ect....ect.

I dont think you could get into too much trouble even if you give up after removal of the head and toe it somewhere would still save yourself $ on some labour.

[GiJOr33]

so i'll say 2 days to remove... lol

What are the main tools that i'd need?

I spose i can always tow it to DrDrifts place, and get him to finish it for me if i get stuck!... hehehe, i'd be demoted from head mechanic to floor hand passing spanners etc

[DAMQIK GTS-T]

10 12 13 14 mm spanners

8 10 12 13 14 mm sockets 1/4" drive and ratchet

10 12 13 14 mm scokets 1/2 " drive and ratchet

extension bars & uni joints for both 1/4" & 1/2 " drive

10mm allen key socket 1/2" drive & breaker bar

pliers & cutters

Torque wrench

Philips & flat Screw drivers size's 2 & 3 of each

a small flat jellwers srewdriver (for the wire clips on some plugs)

Telescopic magnet (for dropped bolts / screws)

oil/water catch pan

set of small allen keys

Leaver bar

I think thats about it.

[GiJOr33]

Cool... i have all that stuff except the 10mm Allen key socket 1/2" drive.

I'm debating on whether i should pull the head off or hasten my engine build! Cos if i pull the head off and there is a cracked ring landing or something then i'm stuffed... no engine to use in the car! Ideally i want to whip the head off, replace any damaged vavles and put the head back on, drive around with a bit of performance and take my time with my other engine build... but nothing is ever ideal!!! hehe

[adam 32]

normally if youve got damaged valves ie bent or something then they wont seal with the seats and youll have 0 compression. if youre leaking some compression then its usually bottom end damage. ultimately the only way youre going to be able to figure it out is to take the head off

i did it for the first time ever a couple of weeks ago. took me 6 hours off and 4 hours on. it isnt too hard and setting up the timing is easy, just make sure you keep tension on the PS belt otherwise youll have to remove the raidator shroud to undo the bottom cover (pain in the ass)

good luck

[GiJOr33]

if it's bent i can understand that... but if it's just not seating correctly cos of a burnt valve or seat then wouldn't it drop the compression? The little booket that came with the compression tester says that's the case... but then i spose who's really to say, and like you pointed out, the only thing that will answer the question is to taking the head off! The engine is running fine, it's not rattling or making any funny sounds so that's why i'm thinking valve. I spose if i take the rocker covers off i can check measurements, (can this be done with hydraullic lifters or is it different). Maybe somethings come loose and just needs adjusting?! lol... now i'm clutching at straws.

[DAMQIK GTS-T]

Compressioin can drop for many reasons a head gasket is the most likely but as you say get the head off.

[GiJOr33]

yeah i was thinking maybe head gasket, cos cylinder 1 is about 450pka, #2 is about 730kpa, #3 is about 760kpa, and #4 is 780pka, 5 and 6 are pretty much 800kpa. So maybe it is a gasket.

[Guest DrDrift]

Took me 1 week to complete the job. btw I am not Dr_Drift, me live in queensland. lol

[JNR24]

When putting the head back on, what order do you put the bolts in?

And how much Torque do you use?

[JNR24]

Originally posted by JNR24

When putting the head back on, what order do you put the bolts in?

And how much Torque do you use?

Pics would be ideal.

[NIZR34GTT]

Tension the head bolts working from the centre out .Don't tension them to the correct tension on the first run,take them down to say 3/4 of the specs then run over them again doing them up to the correct tension ,whatever that may be.Hope that makes sense.

[BIGBLOCKR31COUPE]

Meggalas site has the procedure on it.

[carlie]

I NEED SOME HELP ASWELL!!

I have removed inlet manifold and turbo from exhaust.

All head studs have been loosened from the cams, the center is a pain in the ass :wassup:

i have snapped tools ect and they still wont loosen any suggestion on how to remove these center studs

[46n2]

U need:

10 mm hecs piece that's long enough to fit down to the bolts...I bought an L-Shaped one (because I couldn't find any other), and cut the end of it off (so I had one straight 10mm hecs bolt). Stuck that in a 10mm socket, attached that to a breaker bar piece, added a few extension pieces (so I had an arm about 50cm long - the more leverage the easier it is), and with a little effort, they came out. It's just the initial cracking of the thread that's difficult.

If you don't have a breaker bar, you could use a ratchet on the 10 mm piece with a metal pipe over the handle of the rathet for extra leverage.

Best of luck...

If you need any more help u can email me and I should be able to reply fairly promptly.

Cheers,

Michael

[46n2]

I pulled these settings down from someone's post when I did my head gasket:

These are for an RB20DET (i don't know if it's the same for a 'DE')

______________________________________________________________

Head torque settings

These are the specs I used on my own last rebuild as supplied by Hytech engines

Head is torqued down in 5 stages.

1. 22ftlbs

2. 72ftlbs

3. slacken off

4. 22ftlbs

5. 75ftlbs or 90o

Engine torque setting

Main bearing torque 40ft/lbs

Big end bearings..... also 40ft/lbs