Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey, i have a R32 gtst type M! The mods are apexi pod filter and and 3" cat back exhaust (i dont know this for sure though when look under car it is obvious that from the cat back the exhaust is larger then cat to turbo!) I just installed a boost gauge and it is reading 10-11PSI in all gears and holds this! My car does not have a boost controller! Is this boost right as i thought it was a bit high! Do type M run a bigger turbo or more boost? Any help would be great!

Cheers,

Tyson

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144046-32-boost-doesnt-seem-to-be-right/
Share on other sites

thanks mate, did some searching though eveyone has there own say on 32 boost.....it stock 7PSI....stock 10PSI

One more questions: I have done heaps search on 32 boost and need some advice! I am going to get the rest of my exhaust done so (dump and front and high flow cat) so it will be a full 3" system...the car will prob run about 11PSI then! Should i get a boost controller and up the boost to 12PSI - dont want to go any higher than this, and get a front mount! or buy a 33 or 34 turbo to get more boost?

Cheers

Upping it to 12 won't hurt but the standard turbo gets boring pretty quickly, so buy a cheap boost controller, and crank the psi to 12 after you've put the exhaust on, and run around on that while you save for a better turbo. Standard rb20 turbo @ 12 psi is preeety boring

Yep 12psi is pretty boaring through the rb20's.

I pushed mine to 1bar without issues for a few years before the new motor was dropped in. Old motor was 100% still fine as was the turbo when it came out.

wat mods did you have when you ran it on 1 bar? did you still have stock internals?

also on the stock boost gague in a r32 gtst type-m, the -7 and +7 on the boost gague

does that refur to psi or does +7 mean 0.7 bar or 7pi pr wat? if thry run 10psi stock, why does

the gague only go up to 7?

Edited by Josh_r32

The car just had a full exhaust, fmic and had boost wound up on the dyno. AFR's showed they were leaning out so a new fuel pump went in. It was then advanced 2 degree's and wasn't pinging on the dyno even though temps were 30degree's.

On the stock guage.. Mine was a little out, with the needle almost ready to topple over the +7 top line that was 15psi.

Have a look at the std guage it tells you the units of measurement used.

+7 is supposed to be around 13.5psi from memory. As I said mine was out a little.

thanks for all the replies! I have to agree, atm the stock rb20 turbo is boring! I will get my exhaust done and up the boost to 12 PSI Should i get an intercooelr after this? (will it give more power) or look at a 33 or 34 turbo?

thanks for all the replies! I have to agree, atm the stock rb20 turbo is boring! I will get my exhaust done and up the boost to 12 PSI Should i get an intercooelr after this? (will it give more power) or look at a 33 or 34 turbo?

im not an expert so im not 100% sur ebut i think any increase in boost should warrant a FMIC, even if it isnt totally needed it looks cool and is usefull if you want to go further later on, lots of ppl use turbos from 33's, stock or highflowed, never heard of anyone using from a 34 but dunno if u cant or what...would of thought it weas same turbo as 33, probably just more expensive...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't take it as a guarantee. It's all a game of statistics. And on top of that, smooth over a thick layer of "quality of spanner spinning" as a further Gaussian curve of probability of failure. You play games at anything above ~400 HP, and you're using up margins in terms of engineering and luck.
    • Aye, everything is being touched and all the parts that are responsible for the oiling issues are also fixed. (Crank collar, billet prp oil pump, head return to sump, yada yada yada)  Everything used is of reputable brands like greddy, prp etc. My tuner did mention we’d keep the torque on the “lower” side.   glad to read that my engine won’t blow up on me lmao 
    • It's a fuel pump. EFI, high pressure, but specs otherwise unknown. A bodge job.
    • 800 engine horsies is fine. Will need all the obvious upgrades. Rods, pistons, oil pump, big sump, sump breathing mods. Build for revs because revs are power with less stress on the bottom end compared to boost. Keep the torque down in the midrange, either by limiting boost or timing.  
    • Hiya guys,    i’m currently in the process of getting my rb26 built. everything is being replaced with better/upgraded parts or oem when that’s good enough (which isn’t alot lol). someone earlier mentioned to me that i’ll be screwed cause the iron block can’t take 800hp (to the engine, not wheels) which is what it’s being built for.  what do you guys think about this, am I cooked or na? The guy building the engine will also do the mapping as he is “the guru of old nissan engines” here in Belgium. I know the mapping makes a huge deal so i’m not concerned about that.    I honestly he’s talking shit cause he’s that kinda guy but a second opinion never hurt anyone! cheers in advance! 🫶🏻
×
×
  • Create New...