Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

pager alarms are good when u park your car @ work or at shopping centres etc. your pager would go off when the alarm goes off. I forgot the range of the pager, but I know that it can reach longer then 5 blocks of houses.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14498-alarm-system/#findComment-298428
Share on other sites

yeah thats the sole reason i want car alarm

in case some stooge does a hit and run

its a pretty good alarm apachex

comes with all the standard adjustable shock sensors

engine immoboliser and stuff

jus has a crappy brand name and crappy looking remote

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14498-alarm-system/#findComment-298619
Share on other sites

pager alarms are good depending on wat they run on gsm

or radio frequency

forget the radio frequcny ones the bounce of walla and reflect off windows not that good if anything you would want to go for a gsm one

there was a post awhile ago about place caralarm place rojan or somthing that has a gsm pager and it rings your mobile etc really good

id go somthing like that

to be honest

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14498-alarm-system/#findComment-298623
Share on other sites

I think it is worthless getting a pager. A standard alarm with an immobilizer is good enough. If someone wants to break into your car, they are not going to take their sweet time. By the time you get there the damage would have been done, and the bastard(s) long gone.

Its a waste of good money. Spend it on something better.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14498-alarm-system/#findComment-299726
Share on other sites

Originally posted by mash

I think it is worthless getting a pager. A standard alarm with an immobilizer is good enough. If someone wants to break into your car, they are not going to take their sweet time. By the time you get there the damage would have been done, and the bastard(s) long gone.  

Its a waste of good money. Spend it on something better.

but think about it..your going shopping with your galfriend for...lets say.... 3 hrs.....and when u went in the stores, BAM, someone decides to try and take your rims, instantly your alarm goes off and your pager goes off as well. You would be running out there ready 2 smash whoever is near or running away from your car. But if u didn't have a pager, u would stll be shopping and the other guy would c if noone comes back and trys again and take your rims.

A pager does make a difference..it's better 2 know when someone is breaking into your car now then later.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14498-alarm-system/#findComment-300037
Share on other sites

also

say you park yer car in shopping centre

and you go in to buy stuff

and some stooge smacks yer car

you can come running out in full glory and find the ****er before he does a runner

seriously pager alarms are useful

and for $250 thats not much more expensive than a normal alarm with immoboliser

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14498-alarm-system/#findComment-300582
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...