Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I'm looking to shut down my second project car, so have some nice items for sale. This thread to for a nice BIG PWR cooler. Here are the specs:

core: 650mm x 400mm x 90mm

end-tank to end-tank: 900mm

3" inlet and outlet

efficient tube and fin

Paid $700 a while back at autobahn, looking for $450ono

Can post anywhere east-coast for $25

Have some other goodies I will post in the next day or so:

*New Cold Fusion wet NOS kit with polished 10lb bottle, comes with the usual items, I have extra accessories available at extra cost

*S13 radiator diversion panel

*bag of 30 drift buttons

Will consider selling the following items if the price is right:

*Custom CA18 plenum with modified XF tb with wiring harness to suit ca18 (made 300hp at wheels on a completely stock CA18 (excepting turbo and ems [lil T04, 440cc injectors and microtech)

*Steam-pipe low mount ca18 turbo manifold (excellent quality, small-ish diameter runners, tuned/equal length runners - perfect for torquey setups)

*Full set of 180sx (sports shape, not s13 ones) grey carpet seats front and back in GC (no rails)

*Whiteline poly-u s13 rear lca bushes (still in packet)

*Full alpine sound system, all items Type R (6" spits, 6x9's, 2x 12" subs, big alpine monoblock, another 4ch amp, alpine mp3 head-unit (custom boot install)

*180sx new carbon-fiber bonnet

*Custom steam-pipe top mount manifold, turbo, wastegate and dump. Smallish T03/4, tial style gate etc.. (have ground most welds done, needs a little touchup where weld was ground through, and needs some loving with a die-grinder on the inside)

*4xgtr injectors, 2 sets of standard 370cc

*Near new ca18 water pump (done about 100k's)

*Full 180sx bodykit - recently bought from jetspeed - vertex sides and rear, gp sports front bar

I'll add some more info on the other items above on request,

I'm a bit of a CA18 parts hoarder - so will not easily part with my rare items,

This thread is ONLY for questions about the PWR cooler shown in pics - any other info PM me for any other items and the cooler.

Location: Brisbane - will happily post

Pricing: As usual, if you have any comment or offers for parts PM me, but expect no replies if you are offering unrealistic money.

NO offers in this thread, and NO useless posts please (please PM offers instead)

Chris

post-12771-1164890869.jpg

post-12771-1164890916.jpg

post-12771-1164890925.jpg

post-12771-1164890939.jpg

post-12771-1164890958.jpg

post-12771-1164890971.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145466-new-pwr-intercooler/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...