Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day Mick,

hey wayne,

Three questions

Where did u get this from?

How much?

Much quieter than a canon?

Is it more restrictive than the canon?

cheers mick

Where did u get this from?:

Bought & fitted at Kirrawee Mufflers

http://www.kirraweemufflers.com/

How much?:

Both Kirrawee & Best Mufflers quote $500 for this specific model.

I originally ordered the single pipe oval for $400 - they couldnt get me one straight away so they offered me the dual pipe version for the same price :D I'm glad I ended up with the dual pipe, looks much more stock.

Much quieter than a canon?:

Definitely quieter than the cannon I had fitted, or at least has a lot less bass.

I also replaced the large resonator I had for a hot-dog type, this would affect it as well of course.

The new muffler is still fairly loud when the valve is fully open, I had a mate take it for a drive past me and it did sound very nice indeed.

Is it more restrictive than the canon?:

Yes, no question at all - I did go from a 3.5" to 3" for starters. Theres no way it could be as free flowing.

I'd love to put it on a dyno again (was dyno'd only 3 weeks ago) just to see the numbers.

I've done quite a few 0-160 tests since buying the car, and with the new muffler I am honestly hard-pressed to notice any significant difference. I do think that the turbo is spooling up a little higher in the rev range though... I think! Not much in it if it is :D

At least now I feel a lot safer going past the cops, it looks standard and I can turn the bugger down if need be.

Cheers

I would go Apexi N1

its really quiet when you want it to be, but produces a very clean note when you giving it some pin. That said, its not what i would call a loud exhaust at any rpm

Could be an option?

Thats the thing - until you see and hear any given muffler hooked up to the same kind of car as yours, its hard to know what you might find too loud or not loud enough.

I've been having evil thoughts about constructing some kind of solenoid activated valve that simply diverts/opens up the pipe before the resonator :D I'm sure I'm not the first to have thought of that though! Would be nice to have for the times when you really want maximum performance...

Got my twin dump pipe from these guys... The said that there twin tips have same flow as there cannon and look at there power figures...

GTST%20REAR.jpg

Good quality and price give them a look http://www.cesracing.com.au/products/

agreed, R spec that is one nice lookn r34.

theres always something about red cars lol.

i recommend u get the r34 gtr diffuser on the front aswell, because it sitll looks a little short in size.

and we all no the wing has to go =]

how much did the front conversion set u back? did u get it from powerplay?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...