Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

epic like ^

Make that 2 :D

Nice!

Very nice GTRs guys!!

GTRs look awesome! Congrats!

Awesome pic mate, great work!

considering that we are both in Sydney, I'd be more than happy to pay u take some pics of my australian delivered r32 gtr. Ive always wanted decent pics of my car and your skill set is amazing. Would u be interested?

Picture-perfect Chris ^^^

Thanks for the kind words guys.

She may be going up for sale soon, so if anybody wants to express interest in an immaculate and original bayside blue vspec, shoot me through a PM for details.

Thanks for the kind words guys.

She may be going up for sale soon, so if anybody wants to express interest in an immaculate and original bayside blue vspec, shoot me through a PM for details.

Car is insanely clean as always ! Why the reason for sale mate she is way too clean to get rid off so soon

Car is insanely clean as always ! Why the reason for sale mate she is way too clean to get rid off so soon

Thanks mate, still thinking about whether to go ahead with it (Im sure you know what its like).

I wouldnt mind another immaculate bayside variant of the 34 GTR, or a 35. (Not sure about that last one just yet, to me the 34 GTR just has that sexy iconic appeal, rawness and reputation).

but would u sell your great example for another BB r34?

with regards to the r35 - i strongly advise u DONT go for a drive in 1...my mate just bought a black MY12 which is freakingly quick & i couldnt come to terms with the acceleration it had & the thing is stock as a rock! they now run 0-100 in 2.7sec (correction) & it literally bounds your head to the seat! i had the giggles from the g-force :)

Edited by Marko R1

The R34 does definately feel alot more raw and like a real race car when compared to the R35, you cant deny the brutal grunt of the R35 though they are bloody quick straight out of the box, which is more then I can say about the earlier models.

I recal the first time I drove my GTR (basically a stocker aside the exhaust) I didnt realise what all the "GTR" hype was about as it felt bloody slow and a SS Commodore would probably leave me for dead. If its the power side that is enticing you towards the R35 I recommend you put some money in the engine bay and your mind will change very quickly, I know mine did :)

I have respect for the VS2, Nur and other varients of the R34 GTR and admire them greatly but personally I wouldnt be selling something as clean as yours and paying a whole lot of extra money for just a badge and w*nk factor as I like to call it. Weigh up the pro's and cons and realistically the difference between them for a street driven car doesnt justify the extra 20,000+ you will be putting ontop. In saying that if I was given a same cost choice between a Nur and a base model GTR its a clear cut decision what I would pick. However with the 20k+ margin between the two I would rather have a weapon base model than a slug top of the range one. Thats just me personally though, I like to go quick :) lol

Edited by nomnomv8

The R34 does definately feel alot more raw and like a real race car when compared to the R35, you cant deny the brutal grunt of the R35 though they are bloody quick straight out of the box, which is more then I can say about the earlier models.

I recal the first time I drove my GTR (basically a stocker aside the exhaust) I didnt realise what all the "GTR" hype was about as it felt bloody slow and a SS Commodore would probably leave me for dead. If its the power side that is enticing you towards the R35 I recommend you put some money in the engine bay and your mind will change very quickly, I know mine did :)

I have respect for the VS2, Nur and other varients of the R34 GTR and admire them greatly but personally I wouldnt be selling something as clean as yours and paying a whole lot of extra money for just a badge and w*nk factor as I like to call it. Weigh up the pro's and cons and realistically the difference between them for a street driven car doesnt justify the extra 20,000+ you will be putting ontop.

i totally agree with you - making an earlier model gtr quicker than the 35 in a straight line is not hard & can be done for less than 25k (with the right supporting mods, no short cuts etc). you just need to weigh up the costs though.

for example, lets say an r34 costs you 60k + the above mods = 85k circa

these days, u can pick up an 09 gtr for under 100k (not much difference really)

if u want a 'nicer' & newer model car which u wouldn't need to modify, unless u wanted to fly to the moon = r35

if u went to a vs2, that would definitely hold its value better & in some cases, appreciate like the nur - just like the ADM R32 gtr :)

I think Iwanta34gtr is after a clean v-specII to keep standard. This way it will hold its value for years to come and possibly appreciate.

Just like his Bayside Blue one which he has had a for a bit now and has done nothing but almost a small restoration on it.

Rarer, newer and in BB the newer models didn't have very many.

I could be totally wrong, but just the things he has posted and what I've taken from it :)

^ Spot on mate.

If I was to move forward, then a clean, stock late model example - vspec II or varient would most likely be it.

I've had my quick cars, so still not so much looking for power at this stage.

However the clean, stock GTR's are hard to find as there arent many left. Thats where the search can be both, the fun (and also the frustrating) part and with the long wait and work required getting it as close to 'perfection' as possible in my eyes its still something I need to decide whether its worth the time and money.

On the flip side, with the R35 anyone can go and order one brand new from Nissan with little to no work required. And the depreciation / maintenance are the two pieces of the puzzle which have me second guessing them. Also the current unknown design faults which will show themselves in due time (For example with another model - the Nissan 350Z door lock actuators, window motors, convertible roof tears - etc).

Interesting discussions and obviously, personal preference will always play a major part in a decision or recommendation.

Thanks guys for your thoughts and insight.

Have had a few messages from people asking me to send them a larger version of the 'Bayside' blue picture.

Below is a better one I just finished, its wallpaper size so thought I'd post it up and share with all.

Pics were taken at Palm Beach in Sydney.

gtr99vbayside.jpg

Now lets see more more pics of your sexy R34's.

Thanks guys, hopefully it will start the ball rolling again anyway. I always love the pics in here.

Ant, also keen to see some more of yours, maybe with that lightning in the background? Plenty of it here in Sydney tonight.

A bit of hail here also mate, poor weather will hopefully clear up for tomorrow.

Cant wait to do some pics of yours and mine together.

Should see what other 34 GTR's we can also round up.

Edited by iwanta34gtr

A bit of hail here also mate, poor weather will hopefully clear up for tomorrow.

Cant wait to do some pics of yours and mine together.

Should see what other 34 GTR's we can also round up.

Yea, we should really stop talking about it and set a date and place etc..

Will send you a pm some time and maybe start a photoshoot thread to get some 34r group shots?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...