Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Your all goen to hate me but I'm back with yet anotha issue.

Got the standard ECU back in replaced the fuel filter and got a larger battery and thought i'd give it a go and fixed the ground wire. Started the car and it ran fine for 2 minutes and then started hunting around for a minute or two and then stalled itself.While it hunts though it shoots out alot of black smoke like it is running rich or something.I'm running out of ideas. You can't even drive it down the road for 5 minutes without it hunting and then stalling.

I put the PFc in before i swapped back to the standard one and the inj duty was going berserk around 4.9% and hunting when it is only suppose to be between 1 or 2% when idling.Whats going on their?

The AFM looks standard to me and i'm pretty sure it is but my brother reckons it isn't. How do you tell?

3" cat-back kakikomoto exhaust

Splitfire Di Ignition Coils

Hybrid Intercooler

HKS Pod Filter

Blitz Boost Gauge and Full Turbo timer

Apexi Power FC + HC

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147680-i-think-its-a-lemon/
Share on other sites

I don't think the car is a lemon. I think you stuffed something up.

My rule of thumb, is only do one thing to the car at a time, so that I know what the problem is.

If you go like oh yeah, change this change that, you don't know which one of your 'repairs/mods/upgrades' stuffed it.

Try and trace back what you've done. e.g. have you accidentally unplugged the afm or knocked it lose?

anythign can make it hunt and stall.

I once left off the oil filler cap and it hunted and stalled.

I once didn't put the dipstick down fully, and it was hunting.

Imo, Take it to a workshop

check the airflow meter, unplug it, plug it back in

put the FC back in and do the following

get it to start & idle

MONITOR, 4 CHANNEL

IGNTNG

INJDUTY

KNOCK

AIRFLOW

note down what the values are, are they going up and down lots and lots or only varying a little?

ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK

note down any sensors highlighted in black

look for any relays flicking on and off lots

look for any wierd voltages, check what AFM1 is doing

Alright put the PFc back in and it stalled and hunted again.

IGNTNG initial 17deg 5min in 15deg

INJDUTY initial 1.6% 5min in 1.2%

KNOCK initial 1 5min in 1

Airflow initial 1280 5min in 1220

Idles rnd 950

When it surged results when berserk

AFM1 when is started was 1.26v and then it went down 5 min through the run and it dropped to around 1.16v then it started surging and climbed up to 5.11v which is when it stalled.

When it surged the FP1 lit up and flickered along with WARN when it started hunting.

What is FP1?

Edited by Shoudi

I'm not sure if this is goign to help - I'm just guessing but I know the PFC has a selection as to what AFM you're using.

Black smoke and hunting sounds like it could be richness, which could also be AFM related.

Make sure you're using the correct voltage setting on the PFC for the AFM you have.. i.e. if it's not z32 and it's set to z32 maybe it's just sending the wrong voltage for what the PFC is expecting... ?

selecting the wrong afm will make it run a bit crapper, but that just changes the load mappings, it will still run and idle with wrong airflow meter selected. just wont run great. it wont hit 5v if you choose q45 and run the stock afm as an example

I chose q41 and it ran like crap and alot of black smoke came out all the time so I'm thinking does this mean it's running rich and AFM is skrewed? I was just looking at the Nismo and Tomei Z32 AFM and it says they need an adaptor for some cars.Is this true for R33's. I don't know anyone with a skyline at all so their is no chance of borrowing one.If I get a Z32 AFM which setting do you choose?

1- R33 Normal

2- Power Intake

3- 80 VG30 AIR-F

4- 90 VH41 AIR-F

5- Option

I chose q41 and it ran like crap and alot of black smoke came out all the time so I'm thinking does this mean it's running rich and AFM is skrewed? I was just looking at the Nismo and Tomei Z32 AFM and it says they need an adaptor for some cars.Is this true for R33's. I don't know anyone with a skyline at all so their is no chance of borrowing one.If I get a Z32 AFM which setting do you choose?

1- R33 Normal

2- Power Intake

3- 80 VG30 AIR-F

4- 90 VH41 AIR-F

5- Option

you would run the vg30 airflow meter if u have a z32 afm. Just like what paulr33 said, i reckon you a got faulty afm or wiring to it. My 33 hunts and stalls if i leave the afm disconnected or even check your intercooler piping, that would cause it to run like crap for sure, as the engine isnt getting enough air the afm is actually reading

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...