Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all was just wondering if there is some sort of trick to adjusting coilover height.

ive undone the locking nut and now using the c spanner to try and tighten it so that my car is higher of the ground, this seems to be almost impossible. it moved a little but no were near enough as i need to move it, any secrets that i don't know about.

ta ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147768-adjusting-coilover-height-help/
Share on other sites

assuming its the same as my Teins, to raise it you are screwing it upwards, compressing the springs..and hence it gets harder the more you want to raise it...spraying WD40 + a fair bit of elbow grease would get you there...

When I have to do this with my coilovers, I take the struts out and use spring compressors. We have some real big ones at work so this makes it alot easier. It sounds like more effort, but it's actually quicker and easier. If you have access to some spring compressors, I would suggest you do that

with coilovers, when adjusting those 'nuts' you arent compressing the springs, all ur doing is sliding the whole unit up/down itself, through the thread. so to raise the height of the car, wind the screw towards the ground, also the distnace u move the nuts is proportional to the change in height of the car from the ground

Umm.. spring seat going down means the car is getting lower. Sping seat going up raises the car. The height change is not proportional once the spring is trapped and you are compressing it.

If you wind the spring seats up far enough, you do start compressing the spring and giving it preload.

Umm.. spring seat going down means the car is getting lower. Sping seat going up raises the car. The height change is not proportional once the spring is trapped and you are compressing it.

If you wind the spring seats up far enough, you do start compressing the spring and giving it preload.

Not when u use the c-spanners it does not compress the springs. It's kinda awkward to explain without pics...

If you wind the spring seats up, the spring gets compressed. If you have helper springs, the helper crushes and the main spring doesnt.

I can't really see how it doesn't. Care to have some fun in MS paint? :teehee:

Or are you talking about base height adjusment?

OK here goes. pic is of my Teins (rears) currently at the lowest height setting...I have now wound it UP to raise the car and by doing so, have compressed my springs..

ahh yes now i see. well with those teins, yes the springs are going to compress/extend when u adjust them.

however with the set of teins i put in a mates car recently, the adjustment grooves were closer to the bottom of the cylinder, and had nothing to do with the springs. this is by far the better design IMO

You are talking about base height adjustment. Those should also have preload adjustment. I have never seen any coilovers that have had only base height adjustment, always preload aswell

Pardon my ignorance but what is preload and how do you adjust it in my case?

Spring force are proportional to displacement. Preload is giving an initial displacement of less than it's free height, so it's giving a force on the spring before the weight of the car is on it.

Preload adjustment is the spring seat adjustment. The effect of preload is nothing as far as I'm concerned in a car as you need an incredible amount of preload before it still has some preload when the weight of the car is on it. I.e. If there is sufficient preload, it will take the whole weight of the car and more before the actual loads negate the preload and cause the spring to be linear

Sorry for the crappy explaination, bit tired right now...

Edited by salad
Pardon my ignorance but what is preload and how do you adjust it in my case?

Just imagine your spring without any tension on it all as in dropped to it's fullest extension i.e. no preload . Now as you wind up the adjustment nut it compresses the spring and thereby creating preload and effecting a certain amount of height reduction due to the spring having less travel/compression. Tein Type Flex have damper height adjustment (fulled threaded shell) which allows for the height adjustment to be done without affecting spring preload. Type Flex also allow you to change the spring perch height thereby changing preload and have rebound (valve) adjustment as well. EDFC work great on these.

Check the Tein website for pics.

Changing the preload on yours is simply done by winding the spring up or down. The Type Flex type of damper are by far the better unit IMVHO. Other manufacturers have similar units although Tein are great quality products.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...