Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, after stupidly speeding, and geting cought, i coped 6 months, i get my Ps back this week, i was contemplating geting a non turbo r34 skyline (sue to p plater restrictions) but now have decided to go for the cheaper, but better all rounder (initial cost, insurance, performance, fuel economy) 5speed SSS n15 pulsar.. do u guys think this is a better choice? i mean i would totally prefer a skyline, but non turbo skyline? dunno doesnt appeal to me that much and after asking a few ppl on this forum, seems to be the same advice from everyone, DONT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON A NON TURBO R34.. so ye ive taken this advice.. what are your views on the n15 SSS?

now i just wanted to aska another quick question.. my license is currently restricted to automatic.. if i drove the 5speed SSS and happend to get cought what is the penalty? and after the suspension do i get my 4 points back?.. i will be going to getr my manual license soon, its just that im extreamly busy and just need to delay geting them for about 4 weeks.. im sure i could go undetected for 4 weeks... but ye anyhelp would be greatly appriciated guys ,

CHeers Dave

(ps im in NSW, red P plater, restricted from high performance cars..etc)

my advise mate stick to the guide lines of your licence or you will end up in a world of trouble. If you arnt licenced to drive a vehicle then you would most likely void your insurance and thats not worth the risk.

Be on your best behaviour you admit what you did was stupid so dont make another silly decision potentially throwing you back in the same shitty situation.

oooh for fu ks sake seriously what is evryones problem.. i need a fu king car and im gonna get one, im sick of people saying save your money and wait three years.. would you wait three years?????????????? sorry to blow up, but im sick of it, i went from thinking i was gonna buy a 20 000grand non turbo skyline, to saving 10gs and buying a 10grand pulsar

when you get your license back - you will have no points at all for the remainder of being on your p's. so 1 slip up and your off for another 3 months . you get 6 points when u reach your black license , where most people will have 12 . ... better play it safe .

as for buying a car - why ask other's opinions , at the end of the day its your money and your the one who is going to have to live with what you buy . so buy what makes you happy mate.

oooh for fu ks sake seriously what is evryones problem.. i need a fu king car and im gonna get one, im sick of people saying save your money and wait three years.. would you wait three years?????????????? sorry to blow up, but im sick of it, i went from thinking i was gonna buy a 20 000grand non turbo skyline, to saving 10gs and buying a 10grand pulsar

I see why you lost your license.

I see why you lost your license.

Amen..

I dont think they meant dont get a car at all.. I think what was meant was get the cheaper option and save that extra money you are saving by getting a pulsar..

Pretty simple?

easy noobs, at the end of the day it's his life, his car..

All he asked was for some advice (dis-advantages/advantages) so take it easy

In my opinion mate, the SSS is just as fast as a r34 n/a. It's great on fuel, and around the same to maintaine.. if it makes you happy buy the sss and save 10g's for a mad car later on... Do what makes you happy because it's your car.

Why ask for peoples opinion if your just gunna blow up?

Get whatever you want, no-one really cares what you get.

Cheers

Sumo

i get the shits cos everytime i ask peopel opinions on a car they give me the same bullsh it save your money get sumthing cheaper.. SSS is cheap enough.. i bet of i said i wana get a 500 dollar vl commodore hunk of sh it again, people would say save your money and buy something cheaper for now..it just gets on my nerves,

I wouldn't call buying an NA R34 a waste of money...at the end of the day its what you can afford and what you like. To me buying a SSS pulsar would be an even bigger waste of money...but thts just my opinion.

hey guys, after stupidly speeding, and geting cought, i coped 6 months, i get my Ps back this week, i was contemplating geting a non turbo r34 skyline (sue to p plater restrictions) but now have decided to go for the cheaper, but better all rounder (initial cost, insurance, performance, fuel economy) 5speed SSS n15 pulsar.. do u guys think this is a better choice? i mean i would totally prefer a skyline, but non turbo skyline? dunno doesnt appeal to me that much and after asking a few ppl on this forum, seems to be the same advice from everyone, DONT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON A NON TURBO R34.. so ye ive taken this advice.. what are your views on the n15 SSS?

now i just wanted to aska another quick question.. my license is currently restricted to automatic.. if i drove the 5speed SSS and happend to get cought what is the penalty? and after the suspension do i get my 4 points back?.. i will be going to getr my manual license soon, its just that im extreamly busy and just need to delay geting them for about 4 weeks.. im sure i could go undetected for 4 weeks... but ye anyhelp would be greatly appriciated guys ,

CHeers Dave

(ps im in NSW, red P plater, restricted from high performance cars..etc)

hey dave.... personally id much rather the N/A 34 ... a) its a much nicer car.... 2) it says skyline on the back .... 3) i would neva b seen in ne thing other than a rwd car.... 4) your going to have it for 3 years...

5)... which one would pull the chicks? LOL

na but thats my 2 cents... i have had my license taken off me for 1 years... coming up on 1 year now i am on green ps.. just got another 33... i was going to be restricted to the conditions but got out of it as i owned a prohibited vehicle before the laws were introduced...

get mine back febuary....

only disadvantages of driving a 34 over a SSS after just getting your license back:

COPS dont look at if the gt badge is blue or red.... (turbo or non turbo for noobs out there lol)

COPS look at the words skyline and then their next reaction is to flick the pretty lights switch and if theyre feeling randy theyl even throw in some funny noises.

lol

also drivin a rwd car i would b tempted to spin the wheels every now and again specially in the wet...

fwd car i wouldnt thrash personally cos i went through 3 cv joints in my last car and it costed me alot lmao...

thats my 2 cents...

thanks steve for being one of the only people to give me a decent answer..cheers mate

well i ahvent bought anything yet so i take everyones opinion into account, just hate it when ppl tell me to save my money for 3 years.. its not possible for me to work, go outy and got to uni with no car, public transport just doesnt always cut it..and i love cars so id like somthing nice.. but ye sorry to ppl i blew up at before

thanks steve for being one of the only people to give me a decent answer..cheers mate

well i ahvent bought anything yet so i take everyones opinion into account, just hate it when ppl tell me to save my money for 3 years.. its not possible for me to work, go outy and got to uni with no car, public transport just doesnt always cut it..and i love cars so id like somthing nice.. but ye sorry to ppl i blew up at before

yeh man being restricted to non turbo really killed me like i was wrongly accused for racing someone.. couldnt do crap about it with a speeding record / burnout.... had my 33 impounded.... lost license for 1year for no reason... wasnt even speeding and he called it racing...bad coppa..

luckily i am not going to be restricted anymore...

3 years is a long time..

if i was restricted...id simply buy an r32 or something and get an m3 engine put in ...lol :P plenty of power...

oooh for fu ks sake seriously what is evryones problem.. i need a fu king car and im gonna get one, im sick of people saying save your money and wait three years.. would you wait three years?????????????? sorry to blow up, but im sick of it, i went from thinking i was gonna buy a 20 000grand non turbo skyline, to saving 10gs and buying a 10grand pulsar

you pretty much ask for people opinions and then turn around and say something like that?

im just going to keep my opinions and advice to myself and not waste my time with this thread ..

why did i read it .. :laugh:

damn P platers!! :) hahah although i am one .. until january ;)

Edited by 350z
you pretty much ask for people opinions and then turn around and say something like that?

im just going to keep my opinions and advice to myself and not waste my time with this thread ..

why did i read it .. :)

damn P platers!! :) hahah although i am one .. until january :)

champ i appologised.. sorry if i hurt your feelings lol

i get the shits cos everytime i ask peopel opinions on a car they give me the same bullsh it save your money get sumthing cheaper.. SSS is cheap enough.. i bet of i said i wana get a 500 dollar vl commodore hunk of sh it again, people would say save your money and buy something cheaper for now..it just gets on my nerves,

i drive said sh*tbox and its really not that bad, although its probly not what you want. N15 seems reasonable, how about a V8 soarer, they're legal as far as i know for P platers, have all the luxuries you want. its a luxury car, so its less tempting to speed in it, its just a cruiser.

i drive said sh*tbox and its really not that bad, although its probly not what you want. N15 seems reasonable, how about a V8 soarer, they're legal as far as i know for P platers, have all the luxuries you want. its a luxury car, so its less tempting to speed in it, its just a cruiser.

not legal man.... check the rta site.... download the restricted list...

theyre a smooth cruising car... but have similar stats of a truck.... best luxury for money though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...