Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest INASNT

does any 1 know how to setup a intercooler water spray which would be setup with a pressure sensor so that when a certain psi is read on the manifold it would activate the spray.

It would work in the same way as a fuel pressure regulator.

What nozzles would any1 recommend to be used and how to have it all wired up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1482-intercooler-water-spray/
Share on other sites

Are you looking at water spray water injection. Both very different.

If its water injection I suggest you get a NOS fogger, 3 NOS brass injectors (.25, .30 & .35 for tuning the thing), a decent pump that can pump water at a high pressure, an adjustable pressure swith for low pressure 1-30psi should do it from Honeywell=$50, an incabin switch, wiring and tubing etc. You can even put a bit of alcohol in the water 50% of each normally does the trick(help the water to atomise)

Set the water injection to come on about 3-5psi before full boost. This will elliminate any chance of major detonation at high boost by cooling the charge and making the air more dense. MAKE SURE YOU NEVER RUN OUT OF WATER WHILST RUNNING AT HIGH BOOST.

If it is intercooler water spray you are better of having the water come on when the car is stationary so the water combats heat soak and also to continue the spray upto about 60kmh so that the air travelling into the core hits the water and cools the cooler.

Hope this helps,

Doc

Guest INASNT

i am thinking on installing water spray for the intercooler not water spray into the intake system!

the main aim being to cool the intercooler down when running high boost.

Doctor

It would b better to have the spray running when the car is moving and has air flow going through it so the water would spray through the core and in a uniform manner!

Any idea how to wire it all up?

ONARUN

it would work just like the windscreen washer but spray water on the intercooler!

You could use a temperature switch, so when the intercooler reaches a certain degree it triggers off the the spray or a pressure switch to come on at certain boost would do the trick. You can use some garden nozzle sprayers which are like $2 each and a window washer pump and bottle.

Very cheap mod.

Doc

INASNT,

Im looking into doing this very soon, maybe even this weekend if I get off my ass :mad:

I thought about it, and after reading Autospeeds article on Effective Water Spray, I realised that its pointless to have the water spraying on a certain amount of boost, because by that time, your thrash/drag/race has gone and the warmer air has already passed through the engine, and you'll use all your water pointlessly.

The way im going to set it up is when I press it it sprays, so basically if I know im gonna have a bit of a play, i'll give the cooler a squirt, and off I go.. using the wiper system most likely. This would be the cheapest and most effectiveeasiest way to set it up.

I was going to set it up with a Temp Sensor, but again, this probably wouldnt work to well, because the cooler heats up alot more when sitting still idling, and it cant guess when youre going to want to give it some stick.. and it will drain all your water very quickly because it will squirt alot of water at certain temps.. which would usually be at idle.

Just go down to your local garden shop, and get some mist sprinkler ends.. and a bit of tubing.. maybe a few other things..

I might even do a write up of how to do it when I get round to it.

Guest INASNT

ex-static

good points man!!

u cold still have a temp sensor to activate the pump but have the whole thing connected to a on/off switch so when just driving around even if the intercooler gets hot the system wont spray, also have a manual button switch which u could use to activate the spray bypassing the temp sensor!

I have 2 nozzles infront of me which we use for inlet fogging systems for our gas turbines we design at work but they run at 3000psi pressure and usually run off passive pump skids. Dont know if a normal pump could push water through at a great enough pressure coz they have a filter and bleed system to let the water out if there isent enough pressure applied!

Yea you dont need a high pressure spray, I rekon go the 30c Garden bits.. or steal soem from your neighbours yard.. haha j/k :mad:

What you have to remeber is, the only time the cooler will really get hot is on idle I beleive, as driving around will probably keep it relativley cool. What we want to do is make it cooler at its already coldest point. Maybe I might hook up a temp guage to my cooler pipe to see when its at its hottest, then after I hook up the water spray, see what works more effectively with just a manual switch.

Then add all the fancy stuff you said a little later.

I've used the 2nd windscreen washer pump(rear window) and plumbed 2 garden mist spray nozzles into it with a check valve that I got at the local Holden dealer(stops water from syphoning out). It's triggered by a Hobbs pressure switch at 7psi and I also have a manual ON button in the cabin.

The sprays are mounted as far in front of the cooler as I could, right behind the number plate.

After a few foorays into boost the cooler is literally soaked to touch, so it would serve no purpose in having the pump come on whilst stopped at a red light, coz soon as you take off there is plenty of water there to see you threw to your next journey into boost.

turbomad, its almost pointless having spray come on at boost.. see my previous post.

I thought about it, and after reading Autospeeds article on Effective Water Spray, I realised that its pointless to have the water spraying on a certain amount of boost, because by that time, your thrash/drag/race has gone and the warmer air has already passed through the engine, and you'll use all your water pointlessly.

Your only really on boost for about 15secs.. so it would be more beneficial for the water spary to come on just before you hit boost.

Yes, just before boost, how? To estimate beforehand when your going to be on boost and manually turn it on is annoying, to have it come on while the car isn't moving is pointless, to hook it up on a full throttle switch is the same as having it come on in boost, a temp sensored switch on point will see you dump all your water at the traffic lights, perhaps having it come on at 1psi might be better than my current 7psi, but at normal acceleration at only a few psi you don't need it.

If your real keen buy the Autospeed intelligent waterspray controller, it uses boost, temp, injector duty cycle among other things to control the switch on/off point.

i got that water spray thing happening. did you notice those two brass nozzles just underneath my number plate INASNT? for now its only a manual sprayer but will eventually go to a full auto system in the future. go to the autospeed site and find that article about the 'intelligent water spray' or something like that. i just followed that, got those nozzles, and the water pump from holden and just went to the wreckers and found a water container that fit just right.

water pump: $40

nozzles: ~ $30 each

some hose to hook it up: $5

switch for manual operation: $5

water container: $10

more denser air for you turbo: priceless :)

if we have a meet or something soon, i can show it to ya, and the nozzles have got a fine mist spray too.

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by uLa32

i got that water spray thing happening. did you notice those two brass nozzles just underneath my number plate INASNT? for now its only a manual sprayer but will eventually go to a full auto system in the future. go to the autospeed site and find that article about the 'intelligent water spray' or something like that. i just followed that, got those nozzles, and the water pump from holden and just went to the wreckers and found a water container that fit just right.

water pump: $40

nozzles: ~ $30 each

some hose to hook it up: $5

switch for manual operation: $5

water container: $10

more denser air for you turbo: priceless :)  

if we have a meet or something soon, i can show it to ya, and the nozzles have got a fine mist spray too.

yeah i have seen your in operation man and read the article about the auto waterspray!! that circuit is like $170 bucks tho!

r u planning to buy that circuit or make 1 yourself?

i dont really know if i should buy it... the water spray thingie really is only effective on hot summer days AND also when your moving...or else it just gets hot. i guess its peace of mind knowing that you can lower the temp on those hot days, and also for small inefficient coolers.

autospeed also have a pressure switch and jaycar have some other things too...make look into it when summer starts coming around. dont really need it for winter :P

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by uLa32

i dont really know if i should buy it... the water spray thingie really is only effective on hot summer days AND also when your moving...or else it just gets hot. i guess its peace of mind knowing that you can lower the temp on those hot days, and also for small inefficient coolers.

autospeed  also have a pressure switch and jaycar have some other things too...make look into it when summer starts coming around. dont really need it for winter :P

dont know about summer man, i wanna run more boost without having detonation!!!:P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...