Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have spoken with my insurance company, and they have confirmed it is a repairable writeoff - meaning it can be registerred in the future...if that helps to all those who enquired

if people are interested in actually fixing it, the insurnce assessor reconed about 10k to fix...so i think someone that knows what they are doing, knows who to buy from and has the time one their hands, could probably get it done for $8000 - $8500 (if not less) at a rough guess...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148690-sold/#findComment-2782161
Share on other sites

i know its a long shot but im after the drivers side blinker, the little one that sits in the guard. need it urgently if your still wrecking + the passenger side vent

cheers

Edited by OnAhigh
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148690-sold/#findComment-2782478
Share on other sites

some more pics...

post-14943-1167719078.jpg

post-14943-1167719098.jpg

post-14943-1167719131.jpg

post-14943-1167719152.jpg

am contemplating taking parts out to make it cheaper...as follows

- without the turbo $5500 ono

- without turbo and gearbox $4800 ono

-without turbo, gearbox, bov and rims $4300 ono

(if the rims arent sold with the car, then arrangements must be made by buyer to have a set of rims for the car for transporting)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148690-sold/#findComment-2787746
Share on other sites

i am fairly sure the motor is in working order, the radiator fan may need to be replaced by the look of it, but cant really tell until the front is pulled forward a bit

the radiator was busted in the accident thats why i havnt attempted to start it, for fear of over heating a ceasing...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148690-sold/#findComment-2791549
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...