Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

These injectors, are they made by Deatchwerks? is it lik saying im installing nismo injectors, instead im installing Deatchwerks injectors? has anyone used them? what are they lik? cos i lik the price.......

I have these injectors.. works fine for me. i have 240rwkw and max duty cycle i seen is 68%

i highly recommend them, they are high flowed injectors.

They are straight fit.. just like nismo.. fit on stock fuel rail, and comes with flow report of each injector.

Alot of Drag supra's in the states use them

check out their website..

http://www.deatschwerks.com/

Also if you do a search on deatschwerks on any car forum, people seem to say good things about them..

just stay away from Venom injectors.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148987-6k/page/2/#findComment-2780025
Share on other sites

I have these injectors.. works fine for me. i have 240rwkw and max duty cycle i seen is 68%

i highly recommend them, they are high flowed injectors.

They are straight fit.. just like nismo.. fit on stock fuel rail, and comes with flow report of each injector.

Alot of Drag supra's in the states use them

check out their website..

http://www.deatschwerks.com/

Also if you do a search on deatschwerks on any car forum, people seem to say good things about them..

just stay away from Venom injectors.

What size injectors do u have? Im aming at 250kw at the wheels

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148987-6k/page/2/#findComment-2780033
Share on other sites

only had them in for a couple of months. no problems with them so far.

My tuner said he really liked them.

It was about $600 delivered.

you can also get some cashback offer too if you send your old injectors to Deathscwerks so it works out to be even cheaper.. i didn't do this though as i damaged the old injectors trying to pull them off the rail.. haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148987-6k/page/2/#findComment-2780057
Share on other sites

only had them in for a couple of months. no problems with them so far.

My tuner said he really liked them.

It was about $600 delivered.

you can also get some cashback offer too if you send your old injectors to Deathscwerks so it works out to be even cheaper.. i didn't do this though as i damaged the old injectors trying to pull them off the rail.. haha

ok cool was jus wondering how long they will last for. How long do injectors useally last for

Haha damn, i might be careful taking mine off then haha.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148987-6k/page/2/#findComment-2780062
Share on other sites

I can't see why they would not last, my stock injectors were fine ( well not after i pulled them out) and i had about 180,000km on the clock.

Just keep an eye on max duty cycle on your PFC controller.

Bear in mind that it will show overall injector duty cycle not individual.

They flow test the injectors thoroughly and my injectors had something like 0.02% variance. Each injector is marked with a number which corresponds to the report.

yeah careful taking out your old ones, you can even pack them in the box that your new injectors came in and send them back to them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148987-6k/page/2/#findComment-2780074
Share on other sites

I can't see why they would not last, my stock injectors were fine ( well not after i pulled them out) and i had about 180,000km on the clock.

Just keep an eye on max duty cycle on your PFC controller.

Bear in mind that it will show overall injector duty cycle not individual.

They flow test the injectors thoroughly and my injectors had something like 0.02% variance. Each injector is marked with a number which corresponds to the report.

yeah careful taking out your old ones, you can even pack them in the box that your new injectors came in and send them back to them.

excellent thanks for that, good info. cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148987-6k/page/2/#findComment-2780078
Share on other sites

i'm in.... I'll give them ago

Cheers

So a guess mods rather than rebuild?

I went the mods route.

I got a fair few kms on my car.didn't know if i should sell it or mod it. took it to my tuner and he put the car on the dyno did som test on it and he said everything is healthy and if he was me he would keep the car.

i said i'm worried about the kms on the car and if i mod it something mite go wrong.. he said kms aren't everything you can have a 60,000km car with a bad motor and have a 200,000km car with a much more healthy engine. then i asked him if i should do rebuild first before modding it.. and he said what for? as long as the tune is good and safe you shouldn't have any problems.. alot comes down to the tune.

If you aren't chasing that much power then no need to rebuild what could be a very healthy engine.

anyway just my thoughts.

good luck with your decision.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148987-6k/page/2/#findComment-2780298
Share on other sites

I went the mods route.

I got a fair few kms on my car.didn't know if i should sell it or mod it. took it to my tuner and he put the car on the dyno did som test on it and he said everything is healthy and if he was me he would keep the car.

i said i'm worried about the kms on the car and if i mod it something mite go wrong.. he said kms aren't everything you can have a 60,000km car with a bad motor and have a 200,000km car with a much more healthy engine. then i asked him if i should do rebuild first before modding it.. and he said what for? as long as the tune is good and safe you shouldn't have any problems.. alot comes down to the tune.

If you aren't chasing that much power then no need to rebuild what could be a very healthy engine.

anyway just my thoughts.

good luck with your decision.

I'm no guru but it seems u can make good power with a rb25 motor in good condition without the need for new internals..I have been running 250+ for some time with stock internals...I did a compression test recently cos I was bored and everything was the roughly the same as when I got it tested 1 year ago before the mods...

verdict...its ok.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148987-6k/page/2/#findComment-2780553
Share on other sites

Hey mate what state u in?

Also what time frame are u looking at doing this over?

I'm in vic mate you? thinking anytime from now untill late jan early feb!

they sound like a good deal..

Edited by RPR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148987-6k/page/2/#findComment-2780857
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...