Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, so I'm thinking ahead about what FMIC I'm going to get. I was originally thinking a Trust (Greddy) V-SPL because I didn't want to go cutting a hole in the battery tray as I'm pretty sure with this kit the piping from the left passes underneath the cooler and up into the bay.

Now I'm thinking that might not be such a good option because the piping will hang below my front bar (Nismo) and I just get up my driveway as it is with only a few mm to spare. Or will it not hang below?

I just want to know what FMIC people have got, and their opinions of it (pics if possible of piping passing below the cooler before going into the bay would be much appreciated :P )

If I decide to go the other route and cut a hole, will I have to relocate my battery into the boot? ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149094-r34-owners-with-fmic/
Share on other sites

Out of all that crap I only found a few useful posts specifically about 34's :P

I only want info on the R34 because obviously 33's have different standard front bars etc..and I can't really judge anything on a 33? Gah! I dunno..I just wanted different options ;)

So far the ARC seems good, loops behind not underneath like the Trust?

Edited by so_tred

Yeah this topic has been covered several times, but as you can see in one of those posts is my 34 with the ARC cooler which im pretty happy with it, bolts up to the stock piping just need to attack a bit off the front bar :happy:

im 99% sure the trust cooler you mention you have to cut where the battery tray is i reckon your thinkin blitz, i have blitz on my 32 there really good and in my case and i cant see your case being any different the bottom pipe sits higher than the bottom on the front bar.

also i have bottomed out to the shit house and cracked my front bar and havnt touched the cooler pipe.

havent got one scuff mark on it.

why dont u just cut a hole? and why is that the r33 battery is in the boot and the r34 isnt?

Don't really want to cut a hole because I don't want to have to relocate my battery & I do like the standard look of the pipes coming up the same way..

However one benefit which I'm thinking of doing the batter tray cutting is I'll have a spare cut where I could put some piping for a cold air induction..

Yeah this topic has been covered several times, but as you can see in one of those posts is my 34 with the ARC cooler which im pretty happy with it, bolts up to the stock piping just need to attack a bit off the front bar :(

The piping goes behind & not under? Just trying to figure out cause I've seen pictures with the tank end curling under.

I just put a ARC kit on my 34 and the fit is perfect the pipe loops behind not under so it doesn't hang any lower as for the core size its bigger than the hole in my bar anyway. Go buy a arc kit you wont regret it.

I'm definitely liking all the good feedback for the ARC coolers & like the design alot.. Also like the fact that the core is a bit bigger than the Trust one..

Where did people source theirs from? I'm thinking Nengun..but I don't want it to get here not be the exact type I want.. :)

They have a couple listed so I'm not sure which it is..

People that have the ARC kit, did the transmission cooler have to be remounted anywhere else or did it still fit behind?

Edited by so_tred

My one is setup like the blitz, I bought a generic 230x550x75mm core, then ran the pipe back under and to the factory location. Total cost $400 and the pipe is within the confines of the under-body plastic liner. I can only get 1/8th of it warm on a hot day, so definately not undersized either.

<==== see avatar

Picture050.jpg

I've got blitz ones, you just have to mount the intercooler slightly higher to avoid hitting the pipe underneath, my bodykit is actually lower than the piping, so it'll scrape the bodykit long before it can hit the piping..

note that the blitz cooler have aluminium piping not as flashy as astainless, but light and does the work...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...