Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally bought the piping off Beer Baron here - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=143480&hl. Piping is exactly how beer baron describes it.

Looks much, much better than the stock stuff and apparently has some performance benefits as the pipes don't expand like the rubber ones under full boost. Plus the hoses are not as susceptible to blowing off as the stock ones are. The kit comes with the Greddy Alluminium hard pipes, silicone hoses and hose clamps. The hoses are ok, but have seen better days looks wise.

I'm asking 350 plus freight. Selling due to no longer owning an R33 GTR - ** NOTE: IT DOES NOT FIT R32 GTR **

I Also have a standard R33 GTR radiator fan in good condition - much better than R32 one, and will fit all RB water pumps.

Asking $50 pick up or $65 delivered Selling due to no longer owning R33.

Pair of Red Bride Brix seats with rails to suit R32/R33 etc, in perfect condition. Asking $1600 plus freight. Selling to update to a fixed back Bride and a Brix II.

New HKS SR20DET Inlet cam gear - SOLD.

S13 Cusco Adjustable Camber tops - SOLD.

**Please note Black Bride in Picture has already been sold.

S13 Hybrid Intercooler kit, with Turbosmart BOV - Asking $450.

Cheers

post-14525-1167869521.jpg

post-14525-1167869561.jpg

post-14525-1167869588.jpg

post-14525-1179058983_thumb.jpg

post-14525-1179059008_thumb.jpg

Edited by ookami
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

would this fit r32 GTR or not??? cause the coolers are very similar!

let know via pm if you can mate, thanks!

STILL FOR SALE???

very interested...

I have Pm'd you,Consider sold if still up for sale!!!

  • 1 month later...

Pms replied too. sorry for the late reply I haven't been on here since i sold my R33, still for sale.

Edited by ookami
Pms replied too. sorry for the late reply I haven't been on here since i sold my R33, still for sale.

if these replaces the stock items on the r33 gtr then consider them sold

how much posted to nsw 2218...if you're close ill come and pick em up.

cheers

jeff

  • 1 month later...
if these replaces the stock items on the r33 gtr then consider them sold

how much posted to nsw 2218...if you're close ill come and pick em up.

cheers

jeff

Sorry for the late reply I haven;t been on here for quite some time, yes they do replace standard rubber R33 piping with alloy solid piping. Could do it for $365 delivered.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...