Jump to content
SAU Community

Trust Solid Intercooler Piping Kit, R33 Radiator Fan, Red Bride Brix


Recommended Posts

Originally bought the piping off Beer Baron here - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=143480&hl. Piping is exactly how beer baron describes it.

Looks much, much better than the stock stuff and apparently has some performance benefits as the pipes don't expand like the rubber ones under full boost. Plus the hoses are not as susceptible to blowing off as the stock ones are. The kit comes with the Greddy Alluminium hard pipes, silicone hoses and hose clamps. The hoses are ok, but have seen better days looks wise.

I'm asking 350 plus freight. Selling due to no longer owning an R33 GTR - ** NOTE: IT DOES NOT FIT R32 GTR **

I Also have a standard R33 GTR radiator fan in good condition - much better than R32 one, and will fit all RB water pumps.

Asking $50 pick up or $65 delivered Selling due to no longer owning R33.

Pair of Red Bride Brix seats with rails to suit R32/R33 etc, in perfect condition. Asking $1600 plus freight. Selling to update to a fixed back Bride and a Brix II.

New HKS SR20DET Inlet cam gear - SOLD.

S13 Cusco Adjustable Camber tops - SOLD.

**Please note Black Bride in Picture has already been sold.

S13 Hybrid Intercooler kit, with Turbosmart BOV - Asking $450.

Cheers

post-14525-1167869521.jpg

post-14525-1167869561.jpg

post-14525-1167869588.jpg

post-14525-1179058983_thumb.jpg

post-14525-1179059008_thumb.jpg

Edited by ookami
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
if these replaces the stock items on the r33 gtr then consider them sold

how much posted to nsw 2218...if you're close ill come and pick em up.

cheers

jeff

Sorry for the late reply I haven;t been on here for quite some time, yes they do replace standard rubber R33 piping with alloy solid piping. Could do it for $365 delivered.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • I could show you guys photos of wrap having been removed properly, and where the wrap was removed, paint underneath is perfect. Sections of the vehicle didn't have wrap on it, and in those areas, the paint work is destroyed because of how long it had been sitting in the hot QLD sun for many many many years. Wrap even still looked decent. Good quality wrap, and removing it properly shouldn't rip off the paint work, unless the paintwork was already shot to pieces before hand.
    • Any write ups on replacing the window motor?  I've never messed with them (or window regulators) before.   Ever since I've had the car, the driver window would roll down just fine, but most often I'd have the try a few times to get it to go up.  As soon as it started to go up, it always goes up smoothly and quietly.  Seemed like a bad switch.  But now, its stuck in the fully down position and won't come back up.  I get =12/-12V coming out of the relay/amp when pressing the switch up/down.  So the switch and amp are working.  Just a bad motor.  I've also applied 12V directly to the motor and nada.   Any help on replacing the motor?  Can the glass and regulator stay in, and only replace the motor?  Or not possible?  Thanks!!!
    • You are wrong. That's just Whiteline going along with the incorrect slanguage of the sheeple userbase. They are only correctly known as anti-roll bars. They are only incorrectly known as swaybars. They do do anything to prevent "sway". The swaybars that are fitted to trailler hitches do prevent sway. In the trailer. And they do not look like anti-roll bars. So, take your incorrect infopinion away.
×
×
  • Create New...