Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys its usually a simple task i know but ive emptied my master cylinder completely and now i need to rebleed the whole system since installing the r34 brembos and new braided lines. this is a wgnc34 stagea im talking about.

now i have the r32 gtr workshop manual (i only got the jap stagea one so its no use to me) and it shows u need to bleed the abs unit itself, which has 2 nipples on the top of it, but the stagea one doesnt and only has 2 lines on top, so how do i bleed the abs?

obviously the rest is easy and start from the rear left wheel, rear right, front left and front right last.

any ideas on bleeding with the 4 spot brembos which have 2 nipples on each caliper? do i just do the left front wheel first and do the furthest nipple first, then the closer nipple and then the front right in the same order (starting from furthest to closest)???

any info appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150058-bleeding-brake-system-abs-unit/
Share on other sites

thanks mate but i already have the 32 gtr manual and it doesnt tell u how to bleed the brembos and it says bleed from top of the abs unit nipples in which my stagea doesnt have any and has 2 lines on top of the abs instead that run to the master cylinder.

From memory working on commodores you don't actually have too bleed the abs unit it's done automatically when you bleed all the calipers. You just have to remember when changing your pads not to just push the cyliners back in as it backfeeds the abs unit and f**ks it...Might be the same with the 33's if the units have no bleed nipple on them....

No need to bleed the ABS unit just calipers, and long as you havn't removed or replaced the master you wont even have to bleed that. Its teh same as doing a brake fluid flush, you suck the reseviour dry and just refill it then flush the lines..no need the bleed the master.

If you do run into trouble however you can do a pressure bleed on the master by cracking the lines while you have a helper pump up and hold the pedal.

R33 ABS unit is probably bled with the consult/scan tool electronically

Deren

Edited by Godzilla32
  • Like 1
You just have to remember when changing your pads not to just push the cyliners back in as it backfeeds the abs unit and f**ks it....

So what's the trick to get the pistons back into the calipers safely when ABS is fitted ?

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...