Jump to content
SAU Community

Climate Control Air Con Not Changing Vents

r32matt

By r32matt,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

r32matt Collaborator

r32matt

Posted
Posted

Hey,

The other day when i was pressing the MODE button on the Air Con it stopped changing from vent to vent and is now stuck on the Windsheild Vent. I want to get the front Vents working again. Does anyone know how to fix this? Is there a vacuum line which could of come loose? or is it electrical?

Thanks :)

arep3 Experienced

arep3

Posted
Posted

ive had the same issue with my gtr for ages. while its off the road im gonna see if i can find out what it is. apparently there is a control box (electrical) somewhere that controls the vents. this sometimes fails. thats all i know so far.

has anybody had this issue or knows what the problem is? im driving an r32gtr

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

Take all the surround bollocks off from around the back of the A/C, when you press the button to change vents you will see the servo move which controls it. See if the pin holding it to the vent arm is broken or has popped out, happens a fair bit on 32's especially for the vent that controls the hot air from the heater box.

arep3 Experienced

arep3

Posted
Posted
Take all the surround bollocks off from around the back of the A/C, when you press the button to change vents you will see the servo move which controls it. See if the pin holding it to the vent arm is broken or has popped out, happens a fair bit on 32's especially for the vent that controls the hot air from the heater box.

this sounds like a great idea. ill try that if what i have in mind doesnt work.

i finally got the vent check (step 3) to work as it was only coming up with '3' instead of a '30' number. like '31 32 33 34 35 36"

when i ran it, all of these numbers came up flashing and changed from number to number, then stopped back on '3'

from what i can understand, this could either be that every actuator is faulty, or the 'mode door actuator' is.

pretty strong feeling that ALL of my actuators wouldnt fail in one go so i reckon its the mode door actuator.

let me see if i can find this mode door actuator...

anybody know its whereabouts or have a photo of it?

arep3 Experienced

arep3

Posted
Posted

r32matt, do you have a copy of the workshop manual? its got a diagnostics part in the heater section. the best way to figure out your problem is to run that fully. pm me if you dont have it.

sorry for hijacking your thread...

blackprincegts Collaborator

blackprincegts

Posted
Posted

I was about to post up with the same problem. I havnt got the climate control in mine, mines just the old crap slide switch thing.. I cant close of my external vents or change where my vents flow the air either, when i push the buttons i cant hear the little motor sound any more so ill be pulling mine out tonight to see if what 666dan said is correct or not,, i hope so.. its means i cant really use my aircon because i cant close of my fresh air vents therefore it dont realy get cold... its poo...

cheers

arep3 Experienced

arep3

Posted
Posted

21 is the outside air sensor. 25 is the sunload sensor.

the sunload sensor will always give you an error code unless its in full sunlight.

the pic that i posted in this thread IS the mode door actuator. it controls the vents (head, feet, half way and demist/window)

it is not repairable....

a new one from nissan is gonna be around the $200 mark and they want full payment before they will order it from japan. so its still gonna be a 10 day wait before it shows after you've paid for it.

i did find one at a wrecker though and they want $80 for it.

if my car was working and i didnt need to save for my rebuild, i would have replaced it by now. and then i could tell you if it worked or not....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • Duncan
      One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing

      By Duncan · Posted

      I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
    • Duncan
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      Good work to think to check that, and thanks for coming back to post up the outcome.
    • Duncan
      98 R34GTT 4k engine stumble

      By Duncan · Posted

      Given it happened suddenly, and when you come on boost, I'd check all your inlet - hose clamps in place and no split rubber or silicone hoses. Even the hard to get to ones near the intercooler. It's possible air that went past the air flow meter is being dumped out a big hole.
×
×
  • Create New...