Whiteline Sway Bars

[DFAULT]

Hey

i've just recently purchased some whiteline sway bars

though they only have 2 holes

so that means they only have 2 settings?

and what are those 2 settings soft,medium,hard?

which hole is which?

Cheers

Really appreciate the help

Edited January 8, 2007 by DFAULT

[Topaz]

I thought both boled to the car?!?! Because with only 1 bolt it acts as a pivot.

[salad]

You only have 2 settings. The inner hole is hard, outer is soft. The further away from the pivot the mounting point is, the more leverage the suspension movement has on the bar.

[$weetDreamZ]

Confirming what salad said. The hole at the very end of the bar is softer, the one closer in will make the swaybar act 'stiffer'. Try them both to see what you like. Also depends on the way you're driving and the rest of your suspension setup.

[maccattack]

You actually have three settings even though there are only 2 holes either end.

Soft - both holes cloest to the ends of the bar(outer holes)

Medium - one outer hole and one inner hole

Hard - both inner holes

The bar does not have to be balanced - it is simply a torsion bar determined by length.

[DFAULT]

Thanks guy

Really helpful

Can someone confirm with 'Maccattack'

i just find it weird with the Medium - one outer hole and one inner hole

like there not balanced?

Cheers

Edited January 9, 2007 by DFAULT

[nuffsaid]

I am pretty sure macattack is right

[DFAULT]

Sweet thanks

Anyone else can confirm also

just to make sure

[salad]

From Whiteline themselves

Asymmetric is the opposite to symmetric and implies the use of differing holes on each side of the swaybar. For example, this might involve setting the left hand side to the hardest setting of 3 while the right hand side might be set to the middle setting. Contrary to what some people think it does not equally split the rate difference between symmetrically using setting 3 and setting 2. That is, the resultant rate is also asymmetric with more roll stiffness on one side compared to the other.

You can do it, but it's probly not the best

Edited January 9, 2007 by salad

[Sydneykid]

Jim and I are still debating this one, he tested it on the Whiteline test rig and found a difference. I use split settings all the time and haven't found one driver who can pick any side to side difference.

A stabiliser bar simply links one wheel to the other wheel on the same axis, so anything you do to stiffen up one arm must stiffen up the other. This is how most race cars adjust their anti roll, by rotating the blade (arm) on one side of the bar. The fact is that this adjustment results in equal and linear increases/decreases in anti roll.

The question (and the debate) therefore can only be about the geometry of the links when different holes are used side to side. Based on real world testing, on a Skyline that effect is very small on the rear and basically non existent on the front.

Moving on to settings, there is no right or wrong in stabiliser bar settings. It is a personal choice, you set them the way that feels best for you. Personally I would start with the front on the middle setting and the rear on the softest setting. But have a play around, see what you like, that's why you spent the extra money so that you could adjust them.

cheers

PS; the Group Buy stabiliser bars come with additional adjustment holes over the Whiteline retail product.

[mikel]

Jim and I are still debating this one, he tested it on the Whiteline test rig and found a difference. I use split settings all the time and haven't found one driver who can pick any side to side difference.

A stabiliser bar simply links one wheel to the other wheel on the same axis, so anything you do to stiffen up one arm must stiffen up the other. This is how most race cars adjust their anti roll, by rotating the blade (arm) on one side of the bar. The fact is that this adjustment results in equal and linear increases/decreases in anti roll.

The question (and the debate) therefore can only be about the geometry of the links when different holes are used side to side. Based on real world testing, on a Skyline that effect is very small on the rear and basically non existent on the front.

Moving on to settings, there is no right or wrong in stabiliser bar settings. It is a personal choice, you set them the way that feels best for you. Personally I would start with the front on the middle setting and the rear on the softest setting. But have a play around, see what you like, that's why you spent the extra money so that you could adjust them.

cheers

PS; the Group Buy stabiliser bars come with additional adjustment holes over the Whiteline retail product.

are the stock sway bars on the R33 GTST much softer than the group buy?

maybe I'm just getting used to decent handling, as my R33 sits flatter around corners than any other car I've been in - although it hasn't been on the track yet

No idea whether the bars are stock or not, I'll get underneath and measure the diameters of the bars

Mike

[salad]

Post up the diameters of the bars and I'll tell you roughly how much stiffer the Whiteline bars are.

[mikel]

Post up the diameters of the bars and I'll tell you roughly how much stiffer the Whiteline bars are.

Salad,

diameters are 22mm front and 18mm rear

cheers

Mike

[salad]

From stock, the front bar is 21mm hollow and rear is 16mm solid. So, the front bar is roughly 200% stiffer and rear bar is 60% stiffer.

It's a bit hard to tell the exact stiffnes of the front bar as the stock one is hollow and the ends aren't just squashed pipe like others. I have made a guess at the wall thickness going by an S13 and R32 GTR swaybar.

EDIT, just noticed you have R33 GTS-t, I was going by stock sizes on R32 GTS-t. Post up the stock R33 swaybar sizes and I'll work them out for that too. Also tell me if the bars are hollow or solid. You should be able to notice by the weight of them and what they sound like when you tap them.

Edited January 23, 2007 by salad

[psi]

Staggering the adjustment is a two edged sword. The Best advantage to the stagering of the sway bar settings we have found is this.

Because a sway bar applies mechanical pressure to the spring (which loads it up more) in a corner, it is often used to help flatten a car during the cornering process. We have found that staggering the sway bar (soft setting on on side/ hard on the other) that it is possable to 'tune' the suspension a little better to suit a particular track. This helps tyre wear, car balance and other such things. This helped when on a left turn track. (more turns left than right, or vise versa)

By swapping the staggers around, we found the vehicle tended to understeer more in some corners. On the street, i would recomend not staggering the bar for this reason. The car tends to be a little vague when turning one way as opposed to the other. Its because the leavering effect.

But at the end of the day, try it.. and be aware of these things.

Any other thoughts.