Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Simply get more power to get better times

It really depends on how much money you have to spend

First probably get a full exhaust, then air filter, then cooler and up the boost.

After doing those standard mods you can do bigger things like change the turbo

Also because you have a gtst it'll be hard to beat a wrx off the lights because they are AWD. You will catch up to them once you get traction after some simple mods

Originally posted by playa

yea i got exhaust air filter intercooler, so next step get....

* Exhaust Cam Gear ($250)

* Boost to 10-12psi ($200)

* PowerFC ($2000)

* Good quality tyres ($1100)

* Pineapples ($150)

Forget the bigger turbo, the extra power you make out of it will be lost in hitting boost and putting the power to the ground. You want a constant steady power curve to give you instant power and the stock turbo will deliver more than enuff power for this.

If your -really- after a 'bigger' turbo just get the stock turbo hiflowed, once again it will deliver more than enuff power and will boost up similar to the stock turbo.

Now how many people spend heaps of money on their engine but forget that somehow they actually have to put all that power to the ground? Do yourself a favour and buy a set of good quality tyres (back atleast).

Pineapples will give the rear end better squat and will force the car into launching harder in a straight line which is exactly what you need.

Note: The only experience I have is reading forums, not putting theory into practice. But thats only until I get a good set of tyres.

okay, nice wide wheels at the rear will help.. trust em i know.. i have shit tires and it sucks getting off the line. Even with minor mods and only 10psi i can boot it any surface or i get wheel spin :)

My car also has a different diff, which gives more accel, less top speed - to changing your diff to a higher ratio should also help. I think a std is a 4.11, so a 4.5 or more could be good. Only thing it will put your highway revs up a bit - mine revs at 3100rpm at 100km in 5th, compared to 2700 rpm std.

After exhaust and more boost, I'd look at getting the power to the ground.

Good tyres

Good alignment

Clutch/flywheel

Suspension setup for drags (pineapples etc)

Mechanical diif (2 way etc)

And as dAVE said, higher final ratio.

And lot's and lot's of practice.....

You may not need to do all these things to beat a WRX, but hay, why not :)

J

All you really need is some aftermarket management I reckon. A Super AFC or preferably a Power FC should give you that bit extra to get ahead in the 0-100. Just practice your launches. It's easier to launch a Skyline than a WRX (assuming they aren't doing a clutch dump - and if I owned a rex, I'd be taking care of my gearbox) as you can get some wheelspin to stop bogging off the line, and they can't.

You just need to get off the line better...

Pineapples...

Adjustable rear upper arms...

maybe bigger rubber rear but you could just try really good rubber first...

good clutch...lighten the flywheel while your changing it...

Maybe a mechanical diff if you're really serious or lock it if your too serious.

You may need more power but even iof you do later, you will still need these mods to get the power down effectively, they are cheap (relativly to some of the engine mods suggested above) and will get you off the line like a rocket...

I think you would be surprised at the difference this would make.

cheers

russ

If you have enough power is it actually better to have longer gears so you dont waste time changing gears....ie you have enough power to spin the wheels way too much all through second and into third anyway...

If you had a very low ratio diff like a 5.1 it would technically accelerate faster in gear but you might have to be in third to get to 100km/h...wasting time changing gears and much wheel spin...if you had a 3.9 or a 3.7 you might just make it to 100km/h in first??

You have to have enough power though...

Not too sure

Russ

Get a set of wide normal profile soft sidewalled tyres.

I.e Simex in a 225 50' 16" grip on my car very well. I can launch with them up around the 4500rpm mark with bugger all wheel spin. Simex are cheap, not rotational and spin like hell in the wet, a very dangerous tyre in the wet. I almost lost it by ever so slightly coming on to high boost in third gear at a low rev.

For a decent amount of sidewall flex, so that the tyres is flattened out on to the road when you launch you need at least a width of 4 fingers. Side wall width that is. :)

It is pretty difficult to beat a WRX off the line.. Even GTR's have trouble.. WRX's are full time 4wd that is why they break so many gearboxes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Will have a look at that. I cant see any leaks 
    • Put another overflow bottle (ie, a 1.25 coke bottle or similar) under the overflow hose and see if it is being pushed out there or if it is disappearing into the engine.
    • Staring on a stand is no issue. You just have to wire everything up, give it fuel and cross your fingers that the stand is robust enough. Arranging the inlet plumbing is often the hardest part, without any surrounding structure to hand some of it from. No need for coolant if you only want to run it for <1 minute. As to the gearbox - I think the little Aisin box is a bit stronger than the other small Nissan boxes that went behind SRs, but I wouldn't be too keen to test its limits with the torque of a boosted 25. I don't know if you can retain the box and the tailshaft. The box won't connect to the RB without an adapter of some sort, which is either a plate that will push the engine forward (which is not good for fitting it into the bay's available space) or push the box back, which messes with the box position and tailshaft length - OR - cut and shut work on the bellhousing, which is a long way from "least modification". I'd be buying a new 370Z 6 speed or similar, doing what has to be done to that to make it fit RB (ie, cut and shut bellhousing) and the requisite tailshaft custom/mods.
    • Hi Everyone I am from West Pennant Hills in NSW. Been too busy until recently to attend to my RB25DET Series 2 engine until recently. I am planning to stick it into the S15 shell at this stage, unless a nice SR20DET turns up... For now, i am going to try and get the RB25 running and working well then decide what gearbox to use. My preference is to retain the SR20DET  6 speed gearbox and tail shaft to retain as much and least modifications as i can avoid. I am an old guy and won't be doing any heavy drifting so i don't need a bullet proof gearbox Does anyone have experience with starting the RB on a stand? I got everything setup as much as I can with the info i can find... endless searching and videos on Youtube I would be great to get some pointers Cheers Songo
    • Hey all, Recently have had my s1 r33 gtr serviced and noticed my coolant reservoir was topped up to the max line. Took the car out for 1 yesterday and noticed today the reservoir is completely empty.  Any ideas? Radiator is full
×
×
  • Create New...