Jump to content
SAU Community

Psi - Kw Ratio

Rah

By Rah,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

bigcarl Experienced

bigcarl

Posted
Posted

with my set up power goes from 274 rwkws at 17psi to 346rwkws at 25psi thats 10rwkw per psi but with a stock turbo it may only be 5 or 6 rwkw and that would give you an extra 15 to 18 rwkw but turning up the boost without additional mods to a stock set up would probably almost go back wards without a larger exhaust cooler and aftermarket ecu. then at 12psi with these mods 180 rwkws would definately be possible.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152654-psi-kw-ratio/#findComment-2839662
Share on other sites
Devils_Advocate21 Mentor

Devils_Advocate21

Posted
Posted

efficientcy zone, 12psi just creates more heat, plus there is no direct rule for psi to kws, as theres so many other variables to include that can alter results, ie: exhaust, fmic, fuel, filterchoices, as well as outside or intake temperature (cooler means more, hotter means less) and many more that will determine what power you get, not only that dynos all read different. And before a mod says it there are plenty of results under the search function as well as check the dyno results in the FI area, then you can gather what you may or may not get or close to it, from the information that is listed.

Cheers Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152654-psi-kw-ratio/#findComment-2839759
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

It has to do with the whole package.

The compressors ability to flow at the given pressure ratio and the turbine/hot sides ability to allow that air to flow out of the motor.

As you increase backpressure (smaller turbine housing and turbine wheel) you reduce volumetric effiency as less air is able to easily flow into the cylinders.

This is why bigger turbo's make more power on the same boost level, there's less back pressure so greater VE so more air flows in to the cylinder easier hence less boost required to make the same power. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152654-psi-kw-ratio/#findComment-2839834
Share on other sites
markimak Grand Master

markimak

Posted
Posted
i noticed on mine with stock turbo, 7 - 8 psi made 190kw and 11 - 12psi made 209kw. anything more than 12psi made bananas

bananas wouldbe worth alot 6months ago.

anyway.. thats because thats out of range for the standard turbo. it needs a bigger compressor housing. its creating far too much heat too. :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152654-psi-kw-ratio/#findComment-2840787
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Watermouse
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Watermouse · Posted

      Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...