Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Although one been more accurate than the other, could someone refer to me why they are extremely different in values?? and what would xxx amount in dynologic refer to yyy amount in dyno dynamics shoot6f

Cheers guys

Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153057-dynodynamics-vs-dynologic/
Share on other sites

Although one been more accurate than the other, could someone refer to me why they are extremely different in values?? and what would xxx amount in dynologic refer to yyy amount in dyno dynamics shoot6f

Cheers guys

Adam

Its the dyno operator...we tune at Croydon Racing in Sydney (dynodynamics) ...and at Autosalon (dynolog)the next day made 1kw less power. Both these dyno are ran by very skilled operators...hence the accurate power readings.

  • 9 months later...

Having owned and used both the Dynologic and Mainline Dynos, as well as used countless other dynos, I would have to rate the DynoLog Software (common to both DynoLogic & Mainline) the best I have ever used. The software, data logging, speed control (even tacho based speed control for autos), makes DynoLog hands down FTW.

DynoLog software, originally designed as cutting edge engine dyno software, has been modified to run as a chassis dyno. With as many inputs as you could possibly imagine, and data analysis that would satisfy the most data hungry scientist.

The differences in all the power outputs come down to a few factors, the main being atmospheric compensation (mainly AT on DD). Dyno Log dynos use their own discreet weather station, constantly sampling atmospheric pressure, temperature, and humidity. Dyno Dynamics dynos sample air temp from the probe, which is placed under the bonnet or other high them areas by some operators, hence 'inflating' dyno figures. Atmospheric pressure and humidity are a 'user' input, and are certainly not updated automatically, let alone real time.

One other major variation is the SAE standards used to calculate atmospheric correction. The older standard J607 is still found to be used on many dynos, and in general can read around 3-10% higher that the newer SAE standard J1349, which is what is used by most newer DynoLog dynos, and also on the Mainline/DynoLogic dynos used for the AutoSalon series.

That I think, is the difference in Dyno Dynamics (dyno for mechanics) and Mainline/Dyno Logic (dyno for technicians) Dynos.

Apart from the above atmospheric corrections, there are other 'intentional cheating' methods employed by less honest, or less educated, dyno operators, such as roller intertia values, and other rudimentary calculations...

If anyone would like to discuss my opinions, or needs some contacts with either Mainline or Dyno Logic, please do not hesitate to call.

Sam.

0425 818 755

Edited by Dr_Drift

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Make sure you use the spherical bushes** on the lower arms, ifyou do that. ** at least, if not the whole replacement lower arm.
    • The tap for coolant flow control will be stuck open. It's not just the air door motor that dies.
    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
×
×
  • Create New...