Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

attempted the white dial mod to dash cluster last nite

took 2 smokes straight and i had it done with all the green caps removed and reinstalled (did it in carpark whilst eating hj's as i always carry 3 toolboxes with me full of tools (just incase!))

only problem... they were a yellow tinge... so today took cluster out again and installed phillips ultravission hyperwhite/blue globes...

the cluster is now super bright - i love it... however it now has a green tinge due to the factory dials green coating... so im wondering how to fix this? it has been mentioned to use thinners on the dials to remove the green?

any recommendations?

look closer at the pic i supplied up top there is no green on the cluster... he has removed the factory green on the dials... will thinners work and not f**k shit up? what to use?

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

only problem... they were a yellow tinge... so today took cluster out again and installed phillips ultravission hyperwhite/blue globes...

the cluster is now super bright - i love it... however it now has a green tinge due to the factory dials green coating...

In the same boat, the cluster looked orange, so I used three T-10 Narva Arctic Blue bulbs and the green coating is now visible. I couldn't find anything T-5 sized though, except for these Monza LED bulbs, but I chose blue and it actually coloured that part of the dash blue. :)

I'm hoping this green coating comes off with a wipe of thinners :(

i hope so too as im super keen to get uber white

also noticed that 1 of the smaller bulbs (not parker size) lights up the speedo from 120-180... so everything on my dash is bright and tinged green apart from that part which is duller and yellow

also noticed that 1 of the smaller bulbs (not parker size) lights up the speedo from 120-180... so everything on my dash is bright and tinged green apart from that part which is duller and yellow

This is the T-5 bulb that I was talking about, I'm gonna go looking in other auto shops today for something suitable.

led bulbs look shit... just want normal white

went to autobarn - narva do have t5 sized wedge bulbs... i picked one up $2 each... its just normal white not arctic however they said they do do a super white led t5 size - which i will try after i try this normal narva t5 bulb... i really dont wanna use led's as it will mean having to replace all the phillips ultravision ones i just bought and wont be as bright...

just need this green coating gone - whats the go???????

tried to remove the t5 bulb from its holder... it wont come out! not without breaking it... and had a better luke at the new t5 bulb i got which is just basically a new factory normal one so i dont think itll do much

sent the mrs off on a mission tomorrow to find an ultrawhite t5 to match the t10 phillips ones ive put in

she also came up with the idea of tinting the clear plastic cluster cover in 20% tint... so shes doing that tomorrow (hope it doesnt turn out shit!)

ok i finally got home from working on my car, i tried the thinner thing and it works.... but i wouldnt suggest it because it works on the plastic too lol, if your very careful it will look good , i didnt have another part to the cluster to try prepwash on but i think that will do the job perfect. pics in the morning... its sleep time now :D

when f**king around withe my cluster again last nite

i noticed on the back of each dial up to about 80 it is green... then 90 to about 130 or something the lines are white on the back... then green again to 180... wtf?

take pics of the back of the actual dials removed from the cluster? how did it go getting the white and green off? also that shit doesnt feel like it would come off... it sounds like a zipper when you run your fingernail over it

SCORE!

gf did browsing on the auctions this morning. 90-91 cefs had completely different clusters with factory white... i just purchased one now which will be here in 2 weeks... tacho goes up to 9k instead of 8k aswell

no more dicking around with factory cluster

now we wait... if anyonelse wants a late model cluster i can get several more... pm me :action-smiley-069:

ill put pics up tonite of one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...