Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if anyone is running Kuhmo KU31 tyres on there car and if they had any feedback?

I've been looking round for some decent yet relitively cheap tyres. I dont want 'el-chepo' no nale brand tyres that are going to be stuffed in 20,000kms, but I also dont want to spend over $300 a tyre on a big brand name that will probably only last 30,000kms.

so far in my price range are: Kuhmo KU31 and Hankook H422

never used Hankook before, I have use Kuhmo's in the past and found them quite good. Once I have the new tyres fitted they may be used for a few track days in the future? but mainly street driving.

the sizes im after are 235/40/R18 fronts and 265/35/R18 rears

not interested in Federals, or Falkens, or Toyos....have used all these previously (in 16 & 17 inch sizes)and obviously wasnt impressed otherwise id be getting them again.

also does anyone know what the minimum load rating for a tyre is on an R33 gts-t? I have a feeling its 87 but not too sure. Reason I ask is a few tyres in the second size im after have a load index of 87.

any feedback appretiated

Cheers

Berin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154258-anyone-used-kuhmo-ku31-tyres-before/
Share on other sites

not interested in Federals, or Falkens, or Toyos....have used all these previously (in 16 & 17 inch sizes)and obviously wasnt impressed

sorry but I think that is a pretty silly way to look at it.

Every brand of tyres have good (expensive) and bad(cheap) models, so don't try a falken 326 then assume the rest of their range sucks.

There is a long thread in this section with people rating their feelings about tyres, hundreds haev been covered by now.

Generally, if you want a good tyre cheap you have to stay away from the big brands where you are paying for reputation.

Hey Abcent

I've got them currently on the rear of my can in 255 wide.

I'm getting the fronts this weekend. They were on back order when the rears got put on.

So far, I'm wrapped in them. I used to get full wheel spin on boost in first gear and I now get hardly any.

In the wet they stick like glue.

When cornering, I get much less lateral movement and when coming on the power again there's a higher threshold to sliding. To be honest, I haven't really provoked massive sliding because I'm on the roads... Deca may be another story however!

They are soft to touch, but have a wear rating of 320, so they should last quite well. They aren't loud, but when spinning they don't squeel, more like a wail.

I'll know better when the fronts go on, but so far, they get the thumbs up from me.

And at $850 a set, you can't complain about the price.

BASS OUT

thanks Bass, thats the feedback I was looking for thanks(yours, not so much the poms, read that a little...i got the jist).

after finding out prices on a few other brands etc, I still think these will be of best value. So if the set of 18's Im looking for end up being without tyres, this will be the way I go. Might even throm some 255s on my 17's for now.....as the BF Goodrich ones that are on there suck! (high noise, low grip in all conditions = S#!t)

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...