Jump to content
SAU Community

**help** Damaged Globe Assembly In Headlight

J.PATOR34

By J.PATOR34,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

J.PATOR34 Apprentice

J.PATOR34

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, umm it seems that my headlight on the RHS is nearly stuffed... My car was fitted with 50 watt globes and were very dull, almost dangerously dull, so i got some 100 watt ones and since then all hell has broken lose! Im not sure what is involved in the compliance process to fit globes that meet australian rules. But my mechanic has always seemed to have had a huge amount of troubble fitting the globes in the housing. Ill try describe it to everyone.

Theres a small washer that the globe sits in, round with one side squared off for the flat edge of the globe to sit agains, then both the globe and the washer sit back in behind the headlight unit. but with mine, there didnt seem to be an easy way to get the washer and globe to lock back in place, so that the globe is properly alligned. Now, when i had my 100watt globes fitted everything seemed to be fixed... nice clear bright lights, but about 1 week after they were fitted, i thought one had blown again, the right hand side one, but when i pulled the globe out to see why it had blown after only a week i saw that the washer has melted some how around the base bit of the globe. So it probly hasnt been sitting/alligned correctly since they were fitted, and the extra heat from the 100watt globes has melted the unique little washer thingy, and its stuck to the globe now....

I dont no wot to do.. The globe hasnt blown, but i think its shorting out somehow. Has anyone else experienced this at all?? How can i go about getting it fixed? Should i contact a compliance place and see if mine has been done dogely? Plz help.... im desperate!!

raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

Posted
Posted

Guessing you must have had a GTT with xenons, which were replaced with halogen bulbs during compliance? If so, your lights will most likely be shithouse, especially when it's wet. Unfortunate side-effect of the process, putting a halogen bub in a housing not designed for them.

But you're putting 100W globes in a circuit designed for 55W (or thereabouts). Requires extra power, generates heat -> melted stuff.

Get an autoelectrican to upgrade your headlight wiring if you want to use uprated bulbs in the standard assembly.

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted

Relax. Is the bulb a h1 bulb? if so, it's probably grounded trhough the housing.

The grounding might have been disconnected by the melted 'washer'.

Either that, or the extra heat has melted the wires, which has caused a short. IF so, be worried.

Where are you?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      Sorry. Front brake calipers
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...