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Search is your friend :sleep:

O2 sensor might be ok - the ecu could be ignoring it because its in safe mode because of the knock sensor problem. If you cant figure out the knock sensor problem i would recommend you take it to an auto sparky.

I wouldn't have found that cause I was only looking in the NA forums lol. You have no idea what I have been reading trying to figure out this problem. According to my recently reset ECU (After adjusting the timing) my O2 sensor is reading just fine.

So my O2 sensor is fine, My coolant temp sensor is fine. my AFM should be fine. I would rather not take it to an auto electrician. I would rather just fix it myself.

Thank you everyone for you help. Though only one question remains. If I were to shove a Apexi S-AFC NEO into my car. Would I benifit from it (saying my car is running good now) I would be extremly happy if I got 10KW out of it.

I have fixed the bastard! The knock sensor plug (Which plugs into the igniter loom) was damn unplugged. So it is running like a dream again!

Thank you EVERYONE who helped. Without you all I would have brought a $450 item to discover that it doesnt work. Changed the O2 sensor without anything and probably a million other things.

Thanks again.

Still having really bad timing issues. ECU says 55 (Everything ok!) but its still running like a big bag of dodo. Its very disapointing. It just seems to struggle to get up to 6,500RPM.

Anyone wanna take a few photo's of their CAS so I can match it? lol

You should really use a timing light to adjust it. But if you want to adjust it just to test then turning it clockwise retards the timing and anti-clockwise advances. I think mine sits around the middle. I'm not sure if your after market cam gears will effect it. Don't forget to mark the current position before you start to play with it. You might also want to get your fuel pressure tested if you are using a non stock fuel pump.

To save me from starting a new thread about it, here goes!

I have thought that maybe the R33 GTST Fuel pump is delivering too much fuel and the fuel pressure regulator is shot? It gurgles, pops and even loud bangs!

So I thought maybe, the fuel pressure regulator needs replacing so I was looking around. Searching included before you ask. Where do the adjustable ones fit? Do they replace the stock one? or do they go after the fuel filter?

Before you ask. or even think. When I disconect the vacuum hose that goes into the regulator it doesn't make a lickin' difference at all.

There are a few adjustable ones on ebay for $55. Are they worth it? Would I have too much trouble with it? And what is the standard fuel pressure for the RB20DE? I'm really getting frustraded with it... after so much money getting it running again.

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    • Consider a 35 too...
    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 😃
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