Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok i have an r32 gts-t rb20

my mechanic has advised me that my car is starting to have a little bit of engine wear and it might need a rebuild soon

im not sure what to do. if i do decide that it needs to be rebulit or whatever i would like to get heaps more power out of it

if im spending the money might as well go all out.

my problem is i dont know too much about engines ect but im thinking maybe stroke out the little rb20

what would you guys suggest?

im even thinkin drop in a gtr engine or rb25 or rb30 and stroke them out

i really dont know

What do you guys think for price power time ect what are my options?

cheers boyz

$$$ lucky i love my skyline lol

Id go for the RB25 plenty of power easy to modify and very reliable. But if you have the money RB26 all the way, a mate of mine has an RB26 transplanted into a R32 gts4, he performed the conversion himself with great success...

i will probably do one or the other might go rb25

what do you think about working the engine

reckon i should stoke one out?

wanna stick a bigger turbo on too rb20 wont spool up a big turbs

what are the rb30's like?

The Rb25DEt and rb26dett is easy to register in the R32.

Simply ensure the motor is stock running on the stock ecu, quiet exhaust with the GTR/R33 GTST front brakes and its all legal.

IF you go RB30 its not legal and very difficult/expensive to make so. However, the rb30's added torque and its ability to spool large gt35r turbo's the same as an rb20det running its stock turbo is aweseome.

The 3ltr doesn't use more fuel than the 2ltr UNLESS your constantly stuck up it. Mine achieves ~10.6-11l/100km's driving it 'normal' with the odd little squirt.

Drive it hard and 13.5-14l/100km's is easily achieved.

ok see thats the stuff i dont know registering the engine ect

my car at the moment is no where near stock but ive got most of the stock parts

id love to run a big turbo like that tho

i suppose i better talk to my mechanic about all the legal issues

i will probably do one or the other might go rb25

what do you think about working the engine

reckon i should stoke one out?

wanna stick a bigger turbo on too rb20 wont spool up a big turbs

what are the rb30's like?

Hey mate here is a sensible option worth thinkin about RB25 with GT30R turbo, Power fc, injectors, pump, etc.. About 250-300kw would be alot of fun in a R32..

yeah i will probably do that id like to be one of the toughest r32 gts-t going around id be happy with that if it dont cost too much

well ive already got most of those parts so if the rb25 is easy to come by and fit well im all for it

rb20 is probably just not enough

yeah i will probably do that id like to be one of the toughest r32 gts-t going around id be happy with that if it dont cost too much

well ive already got most of those parts so if the rb25 is easy to come by and fit well im all for it

rb20 is probably just not enough

Your injectors in the 20 wont fit a 25 so keep that in mind :(

Have you thought about building a high comp RB25DE+T at all???

If your power goal is only around the 220-240rkw mark i wouldn't bother doing an engine swap as you can achieve those results with the 20 and not hurt that back pocket as much.

EG: RB20 with cam gears, injectors, Z32, 2530 (or turbo similar) tuned with either PFC or Remap you would be looking at 230ish reliable and the 20 have a better limiter :laugh:

GMB

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...