Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok.

Currently have:

PFC + 10psi + R34SMIC + 3" turbo back exhaust (not split dump)

This with a tune gave me 172rwkw with a nice smooth power delivery. (dyno is meant to be conservative also)

I have sourced a GCG high flow turbo. I'm thinking that 220-230rwkw will be adequate for me.

I'm wanting to hold a fairly tight budget.

I have a nissan patrol clutch - hopefully that will hold up.

So extra mods to reach the 220-230rwkw??

1. FMIC - Hopefully the same sided entry type, to allow easy fitting

???2. Injectors?? - I think the stockies will be at around 90% duty cycle at this power level?? - from peoples experience would this be ok? I know you can get a rising rate fuel reg but think this may be a pain to play with..I guess S15 injectors are an alternative

?? 3. Fuel pump - my stock one showed no signs of fading out up high in the rev range. can 230rwkw be had out of the standard pump? Is a 2nd hand R33/34 GTR pump a direct fit and much better?

Will I need around 15psi to get this power level? I would like to avoid adjustable cam gears and replacing the exhaust. Would a split dump really be required. I have a 3" bell mouth type..

Thanks for your help.

I assume 220-230rwkw would be a fair improvement - without the worry of the turbo wheel spinning off..

Edited by benl1981
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154786-stage-2-mods-r33-rb25det/
Share on other sites

If you currently have a PFC + Boost controller + Full 3" exhaust +GCG high flow... you need:

- Split dump/screamer front pipe (10 - 15rw/kw gain over 3" bell mouth)

- Z32 AFM

- Deatschwerks 555cc injectors ($555 delivered)

- Walbro intank pump ($300 supply & fitted) or Nismo/Tomei ($370)

- CRD/Just Jap FMIC kit ($350)

If your engine & turbo are healthy + decent tune then you should be seeing 240 - 260rw/kw

Cheers

FMIC: If you want to keep with "same sided entry type" i would suggest going for a Blitz LM fmic kit from nengun, they use the stock return pipes, i think they cost somewere around $1000 which is about twice the price of a cheap chinese intercooler kit which would problly do the same job as the blitz kit.

Injectors: The stock 370cc injector have been used for a few 230rwkw cars on this forum that i have read about, if you decide you want to make more power go for the nismo 555cc injectors, they are a straight bolt in injector and dont require any plug or fuel rail modifications.

Fuel Pump: I wouldnt use the standard pump for anything over 200rwkw, most people replace the fuel pump for good reason when they have fmic,full exhaust, 10psi etc etc, they seem to get tired pretty quickly and cant pump enough fuel, i would replace it with a nismo or tomei fuel pump as they are both once again and full bolt in replacement and both come on there own bracket,filter bag and all the other bits and peices, which means to dont have to muck around with modifing things like you would have to if you went for a bosch or a walboro pump (stay away from these)

The 3" bellmouth dumpipe you have sounds fine (depending on who its made buy ofcourse), i wouldnt bother going out and spending more money on a split dump, i too will be going for a 3" bellmouth style dump/front pipe made by Unique Autosports.

But if you only want to reach around 220-230rwkw then the mods you have listed are pretty much spot on, it should make that power on about 12-14psi depending on the condition of your motor ofcourse

Good luck reaching your goal >_<

Edited by nizmo_freek

Thanks for the ideas fellas.

I believe the Rb25 AFM is good up to about 240rwkw...from what I've been reading so I don't plan to replace that

So you think the injectors may handle around 220-230 rwkw..what duty cycle should I expect?

Edited by benl1981

stock afm and injectors will be ok for 240rwkw

they will be on border line but should be ok

fit a fuel pressure reg so you can squeeze a bit more out of the injectors

make sure you replace the stock fuel pump too

you might get 220 - 230rw/kw out of the stock injectors but you will need a rising rate FPR and your duty cycle will be close to maxing out... I dont recommend you max them out too much otherwise you will be looking for an engine rebuild...

Strongly recommend a Z32 AFM over the stock..

For Injectors ($555) + Z32 AFM ($250 - $300) will unlock approx 20 - 40rw/kw with a high flow GCG + tune...

Do it once, do it right or dont do it at all...

Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

I would think you'd pretty close with just a tune/boost increase and a FMIC. AFM bypass is a good cheap way to flow more air while still metering accurately also. Issue 318/319 of autospeed.drive.com has a good article on it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...