R32 Idle Issue

[Tofu]

Hey Guys,

I have an issue that is a little bit on the weird so please bear with me and I hope I can provide all necessary information.

Since I have owned the car it has never idled to a satisfactory level. Prior to some tinkering it idled at around 700 rpm and continuously hunted for the correct rpm by revving up to 2000 rpm and then back down. From time to time it would stall. When I first purchased the car the turbo manifold was non existent and had to have both the exhaust manifold and turbo manifold replaced. Since then it has from time to time not been firing on all cylinders and would skip and splutter if you know what i mean.

On the weekend I removed the rocker cover and cleaned them up. I replaced the gasket and put it all back together, since that day it idles at 1300rpm with no hunt but splutters a little more constantly. When I rev it out to 2000-3000 rpm it doesn't splutter or skip at all. I have read you can reset the ecu (mine is a JUN rechipped stocker) by removing the positive terminal on the battery and pressing the break pedal. I can say with a 90% surety that I did this. Would this sound logical?

I believe it to be a coilpack/injector issue. I am replacing both in the upcoming weeks with the raplacement of the ecu on the horizon.

The current setup is the rb20det with stock coilpacks and injectors. However the car does have 2 extra injectors running off of the Greddy Rebic controller. I will be looking at removing the 2 extra injectors and rebic to run new coilpacks and sard 550 injectors.

Any thoughts and comments would be greatly appreciated.

Andrew

[sky20det]

unfortunately the skylines and the rb series motors are nutorious for idle problems/hunting.

i had a major one where my car would:

1) refuse to rev past 2000-3000rpm when cold - replaced air regulator (cold start idle up solenoid)

2) refuse to drop idle down under 1000-1100rpm when warm. sometimes it stayed at 1500rpm so i had to turn the car off when warm and she would then idle at 1000-1100rpm. i had to wind the idle screw all the way in and the car's electrical system (air regulator valve) kept the idle up. when i disconnected the aac valve, the idle dropped so low the car stalled. to fix i found an easy way to find and fix 3 vac leaks, and then adjusted mt TPS to the factory setting of 0.5v closed. now my idle is perfect.

my afm was ok as i tried a friends one and it didnt help. also because i had my idle screw right in my car wouldnt turn on without my foot on the gas a bit. now i can (as your suppost to) turn the key without pressing any gas and the car's idle up will help kick the motor over.

now when the car is warm, when i disconnect the aac, the idle doesnt change, so i know at normal temp, the idle will stay at about 800-900rpm with no help from the aac and air regulator valves.

so to sum up i guess u should check firstly your tps signal is 0.5v when the throttle is fully closed, then check for vac leaks then check the air regulator. you can open it up and clean it, but i went brand new from japan..

hope this helps

[captain_jonno]

I had issues with idling etc worse when cold etc with my rb26dett. the bottom AFM was playing up and had weird voltages, replaced with a reconditioned one.. stopped it from wanting to stall etc but still didnt sound right on idle and felt down on power.. but the main problem was the inlet manifold gasket was leaking at the 5th cyl. causing it too run rough and rich.. replaced and now engine is quite and basically runs perfect very happy