Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello All,

I'm in the process of building an RB26 with the intention of making a daily driver and weekend track car with about 450 rwhp.

Mods include:

JE forged pistons

Carrillo H Beam rods (overkill, but better too much than too little)

Jun 264 9.7 mm cams

Adjustable gears

Metal gasket set

Apexi Power intake

Garrett GT2860R - 5 turbos

Tomei dumps

Aftermarket downpipes, not sure on diameter

3" exhaust

Supporting fuel supply mods...

I've heard good things about ACL bearings.

Question is, for my application should I be looking at the Race Series, Duraglide, or Aluglide bearings? I like the idea of the Calico coating. Any negatives?

Many thanks in advance.

Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155689-engine-bearing-selection/
Share on other sites

450 hp isn't really _big_ horsepower.

Reading manufacturers' info on bearings has made me think the Race Series will be strong, but not particularly tolerant of contamination. I'm looking for a reliable mid-power Rb26 and need some experienced voices on the power level you can run on the Aluglide bearings.

Are they really more durable, or is just something the manufacture says to keep selling them?

Thx,

Dan

bit off topic, but with those jun cams have you had to upgrade your valve springs and re shim the clearences?

The clearances will be shimmed to spec, but I'm not planning to upgrade valve springs. Good question though. I'm going to find out _before_ I fire up.

Dan

i have acl race bearings there sweet

Sinista,

Glad to hear they work well for you.

What power level have you been running for how long?

My only concern with the stronger bearings is that they may not be as durable. As with everything else in this game, you need to either try it yourself or find someone who's been there!

Thx,

Dan

The clearances will be shimmed to spec, but I'm not planning to upgrade valve springs. Good question though. I'm going to find out _before_ I fire up.

Jun recommends upgrading spring at lift of 10 mm or greater.

Mine are 9.7 and the advice I've received is to happily use the OEM springs.

Cheers,

Dan

where are you getting the shims from and what are they worth?

Check this link...

http://www.crowcams.com.au/templates/Catal...cessories.shtml

Not sure what they cost, but they've gotta be cheap.

Dan

ACL is making Nismo bearings, that should be enough of a recommendation. If not, Sainty's top fuel car is also using ACL race series.

Thx for all replies.

I understand the race series is not as wear resistant as the lower strength alternatives, but above 350 rwhp the strength is necessary.

ACL race series with Calico coating it is!

Cheers,

Dan

get gtr shims from "precision shims", they are based in melbourne and have done plenty of rb26 shims before :wave:

http://www.precisionshims.com.au/

awesome shop and highly reccomended

gtr shims are 12mm in diameter exactly if they happen to ask what size they are. thickness varies depending on cam specs.

I have always used ACL race series. There isn't really a "strength" difference. A bearing is not going to break in half, the difference is in the coatings and finishing off of the shell.

I think from memory on the race series boxes it actually describes the different finishing off process.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...