Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello All,

I'm in the process of building an RB26 with the intention of making a daily driver and weekend track car with about 450 rwhp.

Mods include:

JE forged pistons

Carrillo H Beam rods (overkill, but better too much than too little)

Jun 264 9.7 mm cams

Adjustable gears

Metal gasket set

Apexi Power intake

Garrett GT2860R - 5 turbos

Tomei dumps

Aftermarket downpipes, not sure on diameter

3" exhaust

Supporting fuel supply mods...

I've heard good things about ACL bearings.

Question is, for my application should I be looking at the Race Series, Duraglide, or Aluglide bearings? I like the idea of the Calico coating. Any negatives?

Many thanks in advance.

Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155689-engine-bearing-selection/
Share on other sites

450 hp isn't really _big_ horsepower.

Reading manufacturers' info on bearings has made me think the Race Series will be strong, but not particularly tolerant of contamination. I'm looking for a reliable mid-power Rb26 and need some experienced voices on the power level you can run on the Aluglide bearings.

Are they really more durable, or is just something the manufacture says to keep selling them?

Thx,

Dan

bit off topic, but with those jun cams have you had to upgrade your valve springs and re shim the clearences?

The clearances will be shimmed to spec, but I'm not planning to upgrade valve springs. Good question though. I'm going to find out _before_ I fire up.

Dan

i have acl race bearings there sweet

Sinista,

Glad to hear they work well for you.

What power level have you been running for how long?

My only concern with the stronger bearings is that they may not be as durable. As with everything else in this game, you need to either try it yourself or find someone who's been there!

Thx,

Dan

The clearances will be shimmed to spec, but I'm not planning to upgrade valve springs. Good question though. I'm going to find out _before_ I fire up.

Jun recommends upgrading spring at lift of 10 mm or greater.

Mine are 9.7 and the advice I've received is to happily use the OEM springs.

Cheers,

Dan

where are you getting the shims from and what are they worth?

Check this link...

http://www.crowcams.com.au/templates/Catal...cessories.shtml

Not sure what they cost, but they've gotta be cheap.

Dan

ACL is making Nismo bearings, that should be enough of a recommendation. If not, Sainty's top fuel car is also using ACL race series.

Thx for all replies.

I understand the race series is not as wear resistant as the lower strength alternatives, but above 350 rwhp the strength is necessary.

ACL race series with Calico coating it is!

Cheers,

Dan

get gtr shims from "precision shims", they are based in melbourne and have done plenty of rb26 shims before :wave:

http://www.precisionshims.com.au/

awesome shop and highly reccomended

gtr shims are 12mm in diameter exactly if they happen to ask what size they are. thickness varies depending on cam specs.

I have always used ACL race series. There isn't really a "strength" difference. A bearing is not going to break in half, the difference is in the coatings and finishing off of the shell.

I think from memory on the race series boxes it actually describes the different finishing off process.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...