Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I've been a bit quiet caus of my shoulder reconstruction. (ouch!)

Went to Brisvegas yesterday, about a 100k. A few times I hit the O/D button in traffic tolessen the need

to brake.

I then noticed that when I backed off on the Freeway there was NO apparent engine braking nor any lossof revs, and the feel was sort of lumpy instead of smooth. Its an auto.

Later, maybe 10k, I noticed the 4Wd light on, the steering wheel covers it sonot sure how long it was on.

Still experiencing the "lumpy" drive feel. Got to Bris city and at a red light she cut out, but immediately restarted. The 4WD came on again.

Got to the Motel and parked for the night. Next morning no 4WD light. All systems AOK. Drove home, and all over today, noproblemo.

Any ideas???

Incidently, the Motel had one of those stacked car parks. I had 4mm clearance between the roof rails and

the upper deck. I took six attempts toget the Stag in, I even had to fold the RV mirrors in to make it fit, a guy in a Caprice in the next bay gave up and drove away. I wont be staying there again.

Edited by 66yostagea
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156207-4wd-light/
Share on other sites

Lumpy feel... not just like when you are running it in constant AWD? (that little S button left of the steering column...), though that has nothing to do with why your 4wd light has come on??? - ...

I just know that my power button keeps staying on sometimes when i start up the car - completely random...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156207-4wd-light/#findComment-2903087
Share on other sites

Hugh, check the ATTESSA fluid, there is a small tankfor it in the boot, drivers side, behind the two little covers. Two bob nothing it's low, as I have had the same issue with the light because of that, but that does not explain the"lumpy" feeling though...........

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156207-4wd-light/#findComment-2903155
Share on other sites

Hugh, check the ATTESSA fluid, there is a small tankfor it in the boot, drivers side, behind the two little covers. Two bob nothing it's low, as I have had the same issue with the light because of that, but that does not explain the"lumpy" feeling though...........

Yep. I'm in to that, level is fine.

The lumpy bit may not be the best description.

In a manual, when you back off, you get a positive braking effect from the engine. Right?

In an auto you get braking, but not to the samelevel of decelleration. But the decelleration is smooth.

When the light was on it felt sort of disjointed, and when accellerating again it felt like the torque converter was

either not picking up smoothly or the lock upmechanism was somehow malfunctioning.

When the light is on, does it mean a fault in the diffs, the transfer case or the tranny or theATTESSA?

I know by the "seat of the pants" something was off with the drive line. But which bit?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156207-4wd-light/#findComment-2903442
Share on other sites

get the attessa ecu out from behind the pasenger side rear fender panel area (note, its a pain in the arse to remove :laugh: ) and check the attessa diagnostic code as one of the sensors may be stuffed.

my 4wd light is on constant because i dont have the 2 wires from the ecu connected to tell the attessa ecu the rpm signal and tps signal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156207-4wd-light/#findComment-2903904
Share on other sites

I know of two. From my testing experiences recently, having the TPS unplugged brings it on, and also pulling out the 4WD relay under bonnet brings it on.

Mine just cameon while driving. I had been using the O/D button to get a bit extra engine braking, about

half a dozen itmes only.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156207-4wd-light/#findComment-2912823
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...