Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just wrapped up my BNR32 rebuild two weeks ago or so, and the car is mostly sorted, except for massive explosive misfiring under WOT load at 6000rpm and above.

main bits of the car: Tomei Poncams 260/260, 9.15mm lift/Garrett 2860-5 turbos (like HKS 2530s), and all supporting mods. The fuel pump is an Apexi in-tank model, spark plugs are NGK Iridium grade 8 gapped at 0.6mm, about 2000km on them but they've fouled three times in the past two weeks. New Splitfire coilpacks and stock fuel rail with Nismo fuel pressure regulator. The charcoal fuel vapour canister up front was removed and the lines blocked off or rerouted.

The overfueling has been sorted and the plugs aren't fouling anymore (a fuel tank breather hose was misrouted). Now however, fuel pressure will not fully rise with boost. No matter what I set the base pressure at, during driving, it will follow boost up 0.7bar, then start to gradually, and then rapidly (depending on rpm and rate of acceleration) fall 2 bars. Below 3bar fuel pressure, the engine starts to misfire. Boost is set at 1.5bar at the moment.

During dyno mapping, the fuel pressure ran normally (climbing in sync with boost) and I made 496rwhp. But I can't replicate this ever since they "sorted" the breather line problem, which would cause the car to massively overfuel when the tank was topped off, but run normally on 1/4 tank or less.

I suppose I could just set the rev limited to 6000rpm and live with it. But then, that wouldnt be much of a GT-R now would it??

Any thoughts/ideas would be appreciated!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...