Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im selling a used (barely) kkr430 with the dump pipe and v-band clamp. almost brand new condition with bugger all shaft play. driven less than approximately 2000km's.

i currently dont have any pictures, but can be viewed on otomoto's site. http://www.otomoto.com.au/kkrturbo.htm

for those of you who are lazy, here are the specs;

KKR430_lg.jpg

Compressor inlet pipe 69mm, compressor outlet pipe 50mm

48 trim compressor; inducer 53mm, exducer 76.5mm

Turbine wheel outlet 48mm, outer diameter 64.5mm

im looking for $650ono, now $500. $400 picked up this weekend only! -melbourne

i want this thing gone! going to buy a new setup next week people!

call Miguel on 0432315388 :happy:

some low quality pics attached

post-30568-1171793937.jpg

post-30568-1171793974.jpg

post-30568-1171794123.jpg

post-30568-1171794164.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156831-sold/
Share on other sites

it actually wasnt bolted on to my car, but a mate of mine made 205rwkw on dr.drift's dyno with standard afm and injectors, someone else on these forums made 210rwkw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156831-sold/#findComment-2924341
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
will this be a direct bolt on to an r33 with all the lines suiting the KKR

wanting to know this too...

also whats the power rating of it aaannndd when does boost come on?

Oh and the 205kw your mate made, was that on a 32 or 33?

:D

Musky

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156831-sold/#findComment-2964368
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...