Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys , recently i dynoed my car and after the dyno, i did a engine compression test and the numbers were pretty bad compared to 2 years ago ~ which was around 130 across all 5 cyclinders except for the 2nd cyclinder which is 100. But after adding some oil on the 2nd cyclinder, the compression on the 2nd cyclinder immediately jumped back up to 125 psi. So they concluded that the injector in the 2nd cyclinder is faulty. But after asking few other workshops, they are saying injectors and low compression rates are unrelated..

any ideas guys ?

Thanks

injectors are before the valves. The oil let the loose rings in cyl2 seal better which bumped up the compression, temporarily. If they added oil to the other cylinders they more then likely would have jumped up much the same, so across the board would have been something like 155.

Surely all the oil is doing is sealing the rings better which means that's what's no good in that cylinder. If the test with oil didn't go up then you would be looking at valves. That's my theory anyway.

Surely all the oil is doing is sealing the rings better which means that's what's no good in that cylinder. If the test with oil didn't go up then you would be looking at valves. That's my theory anyway.

thanks for the replies guys, so is it safe to say its unrelated and irregardless if the injector is faulty or not adding oil will bump the compression readings up ?

thanks for the replies guys, so is it safe to say its unrelated and irregardless if the injector is faulty or not adding oil will bump the compression readings up ?

Unrelated with injectors mate .

You are correct abo .

If a little amount of oil increases comp it means rings and or bore worn but don't forget a substantial amount will increase comp because the combustion chamber is smaller because of the oil . In a low comp cyl if puting oil in to it doesn't increase comp it means the valves are leaking.

Do a leakdown test as well.

leakdown test is the best test to do.

Remove the sparkplugs, remove the intake and oil cap do your test. if its intake valves and there is reasonable leakage you'll hear/feel it coming out the intake, same for exhaust if its piston/rings you'll hear/feel it coming out the oil cap. just make sure that each cylinder is firing TDC (top dead centre).

Its a good idea to turn the motor over a few times once spark plugs are removed just incase theres any foreign matter between the valve and the seat which will give a false reading.

leakdown test is the best test to do.

Remove the sparkplugs, remove the intake and oil cap do your test. if its intake valves and there is reasonable leakage you'll hear/feel it coming out the intake, same for exhaust if its piston/rings you'll hear/feel it coming out the oil cap. just make sure that each cylinder is firing TDC (top dead centre).

Its a good idea to turn the motor over a few times once spark plugs are removed just incase theres any foreign matter between the valve and the seat which will give a false reading.

Thanks guys for the replies, im sending my car in for the leakdown test tommorow. Will see how it goes and check out what is the problem

Cheers

Thanks guys for the replies, im sending my car in for the leakdown test tommorow. Will see how it goes and check out what is the problem

Cheers

HEy guys, got my leak down test and compression test done today. results were

Compression test Leak down test

cyc 1 : 155 10%

cyc 2: 155 20%

cyc3 : 155 5%

cyc4: 153 5%

cyc 5 : 150 5%

cyc 6 : 151 5%

looks like all went well and will be proceeding to the next mods :domokun:

Thanks for the feedbacks

HEy guys, got my leak down test and compression test done today. results were

Compression test Leak down test

cyc 1 : 155 10%

cyc 2: 155 20%

cyc3 : 155 5%

cyc4: 153 5%

cyc 5 : 150 5%

cyc 6 : 151 5%

looks like all went well and will be proceeding to the next mods :domokun:

Thanks for the feedbacks

That indicates bore and or ring wear on number 2. and to a lesser extend in number 1 as well .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 馃槄
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 馃珷    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
  • Create New...