Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys , recently i dynoed my car and after the dyno, i did a engine compression test and the numbers were pretty bad compared to 2 years ago ~ which was around 130 across all 5 cyclinders except for the 2nd cyclinder which is 100. But after adding some oil on the 2nd cyclinder, the compression on the 2nd cyclinder immediately jumped back up to 125 psi. So they concluded that the injector in the 2nd cyclinder is faulty. But after asking few other workshops, they are saying injectors and low compression rates are unrelated..

any ideas guys ?

Thanks

injectors are before the valves. The oil let the loose rings in cyl2 seal better which bumped up the compression, temporarily. If they added oil to the other cylinders they more then likely would have jumped up much the same, so across the board would have been something like 155.

Surely all the oil is doing is sealing the rings better which means that's what's no good in that cylinder. If the test with oil didn't go up then you would be looking at valves. That's my theory anyway.

Surely all the oil is doing is sealing the rings better which means that's what's no good in that cylinder. If the test with oil didn't go up then you would be looking at valves. That's my theory anyway.

thanks for the replies guys, so is it safe to say its unrelated and irregardless if the injector is faulty or not adding oil will bump the compression readings up ?

thanks for the replies guys, so is it safe to say its unrelated and irregardless if the injector is faulty or not adding oil will bump the compression readings up ?

Unrelated with injectors mate .

You are correct abo .

If a little amount of oil increases comp it means rings and or bore worn but don't forget a substantial amount will increase comp because the combustion chamber is smaller because of the oil . In a low comp cyl if puting oil in to it doesn't increase comp it means the valves are leaking.

Do a leakdown test as well.

leakdown test is the best test to do.

Remove the sparkplugs, remove the intake and oil cap do your test. if its intake valves and there is reasonable leakage you'll hear/feel it coming out the intake, same for exhaust if its piston/rings you'll hear/feel it coming out the oil cap. just make sure that each cylinder is firing TDC (top dead centre).

Its a good idea to turn the motor over a few times once spark plugs are removed just incase theres any foreign matter between the valve and the seat which will give a false reading.

leakdown test is the best test to do.

Remove the sparkplugs, remove the intake and oil cap do your test. if its intake valves and there is reasonable leakage you'll hear/feel it coming out the intake, same for exhaust if its piston/rings you'll hear/feel it coming out the oil cap. just make sure that each cylinder is firing TDC (top dead centre).

Its a good idea to turn the motor over a few times once spark plugs are removed just incase theres any foreign matter between the valve and the seat which will give a false reading.

Thanks guys for the replies, im sending my car in for the leakdown test tommorow. Will see how it goes and check out what is the problem

Cheers

Thanks guys for the replies, im sending my car in for the leakdown test tommorow. Will see how it goes and check out what is the problem

Cheers

HEy guys, got my leak down test and compression test done today. results were

Compression test Leak down test

cyc 1 : 155 10%

cyc 2: 155 20%

cyc3 : 155 5%

cyc4: 153 5%

cyc 5 : 150 5%

cyc 6 : 151 5%

looks like all went well and will be proceeding to the next mods :domokun:

Thanks for the feedbacks

HEy guys, got my leak down test and compression test done today. results were

Compression test Leak down test

cyc 1 : 155 10%

cyc 2: 155 20%

cyc3 : 155 5%

cyc4: 153 5%

cyc 5 : 150 5%

cyc 6 : 151 5%

looks like all went well and will be proceeding to the next mods :domokun:

Thanks for the feedbacks

That indicates bore and or ring wear on number 2. and to a lesser extend in number 1 as well .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...