Jump to content
SAU Community

Auto Computer

brizzi

By brizzi,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

brizzi Collaborator

brizzi

Posted
Posted

Hi all doe's anyone know if a r33 auto computer will run in a stagea?

We were thinking since stageas are soo detuned you could gain by using a 33 auto computer.

Doe's anyone know if this would create any problems or could this quite possibly work?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157081-auto-computer/
Share on other sites
CruiseLiner Mentor

CruiseLiner

Posted
Posted
Hi all doe's anyone know if a r33 auto computer will run in a stagea?

We were thinking since stageas are soo detuned you could gain by using a 33 auto computer.

Doe's anyone know if this would create any problems or could this quite possibly work?

different plug from memory, but im sure someone on here will know for sure

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157081-auto-computer/#findComment-2917787
Share on other sites
AlexCim Grand Master

AlexCim

Posted
Posted

Both the R34 and R33's have VVT on the intake cam. The difference is the R34 system is infinatly variable in adjustment, where the R33 system is on/off.

However, this doesnt seem to be an issue as Cyrus is running and R34 GTT powerFC in his R33 engined manual converted Stagea.

I dont know if the tiptronic/not argument has much basis either, as the box still works like an auto, essentially they are both the same, with the tiptronic feature being an add-on to the standard auto box....understand what I am trying to say.

Id be curious to see what would happen if someone tried it.

OH, on another note, there are a few sensor changes from R33 to R34, for example R34 RB25DET's have MAP sensors which tell the ecu how much boost the car is running, also a few of the pinouts on the R34 are different to the Stagea, namingly the injectors are on different pins (hence the car wont run plug out/plug in with an R34 ecu)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157081-auto-computer/#findComment-2921665
Share on other sites
Terminal Grand Master

Terminal

Posted
Posted

I was talking to Beastian last night, he said he plugged his R34 PowerFC into his car, and it worked first go with nothing changed. It didn't drive as his car is still auto, but the engine worked. I don't think the injectors are on different pins if this happened

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157081-auto-computer/#findComment-2921820
Share on other sites
beastien Proficient

beastien

Posted
Posted

Three of the injectors are definately on different pins, but they are just mixed around with each other, this is why the engine still ran, the injectors would be firing at the wrong time, but the timing is so close, it still ran under no load.

If you drove it like this you would definately notice it.

Also I have found out through someone in the forced induction section, and confirmed it with the R34 service manual and Stagea S2 service manual, that the VCT is basically the same between the R33 and R34, it's ON/OFF. The only difference is the R34 has been designed so it comes on alot more smoothly.

There are a few sensor differences aswell, but from studying the service manuals, they won't make any difference to the running of the engine. I think they are mainly to do with the more intricate R&R mapping that R34's have.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157081-auto-computer/#findComment-2923825
Share on other sites
Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

So are you saying you can plug in a R34 GTT Powerfc into the S1 Stagea (auto or manual, it makes no difference if the auto has the MV shift kit), fire it up, and have it dyno tuned, and away you go?

Or is there more to it then just that ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157081-auto-computer/#findComment-2925522
Share on other sites
beastien Proficient

beastien

Posted
Posted

Definately has to be a manual Brendan, Power FC has no facility or connections to control the auto box unfortunately.

I'll actually be starting my conversion this weekend, and the PFC will be going in afterwards.

I just wanted to plug it in and see what happened, Theres been a bit of talk about the R34 version not being compatible with the S1, and modifications being needed. I knew it would work because Ska's seems to work fine, and I thought I would be the next guinea pig, and work it out for myself. What I have found is very promising, and it's looking alot easier to acheive than first thought.

Once everything is finalised, I will gladly post my findings, and answer any questions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157081-auto-computer/#findComment-2926633
Share on other sites
Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted
Definately has to be a manual

Nup.

Power FC in auto R33 RB25det does work

with MV Automatics shift kit

........... trust me ! :P

would love to pick your brain once its all done brendan, all the best 'bro

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157081-auto-computer/#findComment-2929603
Share on other sites
beastien Proficient

beastien

Posted
Posted
Nup.

Power FC in auto R33 RB25det does work

with MV Automatics shift kit

........... trust me ! :(

would love to pick your brain once its all done brendan, all the best 'bro

I'm almost certain, specially after looking at an R33 service manual, that they have a separate Auto trans ECU, unlike the stagea which is incorporated into the engine ECU. Thats the only way it could work.

Maybe it would be possible to put an auto ECU from an R33 into the stagea to control the transmission, and run the engine from a Power FC or such.

More than keen to share my findings mate :wave:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157081-auto-computer/#findComment-2930323
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
Mr_RS4 Rising Star

Mr_RS4

Posted
Posted
Nup.

Power FC in auto R33 RB25det does work

with MV Automatics shift kit

........... trust me ! :laugh:

would love to pick your brain once its all done brendan, all the best 'bro

I'm pretty sure that I remember reading in an issue of HPI a while back they did a feature on Auto's with MV Automatics. And as well as the shift kits and other internal mods they do for autos they also have a little black box they've made where it bascially takes the control away from the auto ecu and makes it manual. As in it won't shift itself anymore you need to use the auto shifter to change gears (like 1st, 2nd, D = 3rd etc). This would explain what Tangels was saying. If this were the case then it wouldn't matter about using the PFC as long as it can run the motor, you'd just have to get used to changing gears with the auto selector.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157081-auto-computer/#findComment-2986381
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...