Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nice work mate, veryvery well done. i noticed your carbon canister lines have been 'chopped'. why don tyou have one of those? its the two lines that you have put the screws in...

Photo was taken when we chopped the paint tin size carbon canister out, I have since purchased a standard size carbon canister and put it back in.

So what was coated for the $210 ?

just plenum and piping? or the engine covers as well ?

plenum, intercooler piping, cam coveres, strut brace mounts, radiator mounts. I chose 2 different colours (the silver and dark blue) which made it more expensive (Min charge of $50 per new colour). If you want all the one colour it will prob. be a bit cheaper. Powdercoating is very cheap if you go to the right place.

I am not that happy with the colours, the cam covers turned out a lot bluer than I wanted, I was after a gun metal grey look but had to re-choose the colours I had chosen because I chose the only range that they did not have in stock.

Forgot to add that the pearl flakes etc cost a little bit extra with the powdercoating.

  • 2 years later...

Ah yeh woops sorry. I see the braided lines now. I think I might have been looking at a different pic.... possibly this one: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pu...80&start=80

But yeah, my question still stands... regarding the tube from radiator-to-coolant bottle and the tubes which "look-like" they are attached to his power steering fluid reservoir.

The only reason i sound like a broken record asking the same stuff over and over again...is because i've been getting mixed answers from a few people (I'm a total amateur when it comes to stuff under the hood). So sorry for that.

I did notice a weird thing though... I replaced one hose which was for air/vaccum (it was previously disconnected anyway, it had worn out and broken off from where it was attached) and my Boost guage needle started flickering? previously it had just been lying still at the bottom when the car was turned on. Not sure if this is normal.

to help you out a little..

i have used a cheap rubber "dress up" hose from my radiator tro overflow bottle for a long time and also for my breather pipes.. its had no dramas. its not silicon and is very flimsy but has held up for a few years now.

proper silicon hoses can be used for coolant lines to a bleed bottle etc.. aslong as they are clamped good. they are usually 3mm thick and being silicon they are very heat resistent.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...