Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

not quite sure wat u mean

i dont see how you would starve the car with a 040

wat mod you supporting

as long you getit installed right

pfc, , cooler, bigger turbz, stock injectors, full exhaust

yea i know i was told even if you install it right i'd need a ( surge tank?) cause ill run out of petrol soon as it gets in the reserve tank.

ps= i like ur car man :)

Edited by R33GOD

thanks man

umm yer surge tank is always a good thing make sure that when it comes to fuel you dont go cheap always go for the big bangers to much fuel is better than no fuel at all

im running a 044 with a 1.5 lt surge tank and a standard lift pump and that suppourst 300 rwkw

also make sure you get some teflon braided hose if you buy any one those big pumps or else you will ahve trouble after trouble

there is a thing as a fuel pump thats too big

if it can pump too much and if your sitting in peak hour traffic idling lots the pump will keep going and pushing the fuel around the rail system and back to the tank, which will heat up the fuel, giving you a soggy and sluggish response when you open the throttle

before i go tmy inj n ect i had standard ones and a 044 with a malpassi i was stupid n tryed to get as much power as possiable without any mods

anyways

the malpassi seem to over run the inj and pump a heap of fuel into the car but max sure they dont max out or else Bang..

but you should be right for say 240 rwkw max

there is a thing as a fuel pump thats too big

if it can pump too much and if your sitting in peak hour traffic idling lots the pump will keep going and pushing the fuel around the rail system and back to the tank, which will heat up the fuel, giving you a soggy and sluggish response when you open the throttle

everything is so complicated these days lol (only if you make it complicated)

what sort of pump is ideal for an r33 if not the 040?

there is a thing as a fuel pump thats too big

if it can pump too much and if your sitting in peak hour traffic idling lots the pump will keep going and pushing the fuel around the rail system and back to the tank, which will heat up the fuel, giving you a soggy and sluggish response when you open the throttle

thats very tru but i wat i was getting at was better to more than none at all cause you know wat a shortage of fuel does

040 is fine for most mild gts's

gtr is another goody (but usually 2nd hand, older)

its only like really big pumps that have the "too big" issue

like maybe an 044 or twin 044's etc

the best option if you are chasing just a lil more power with a good tune would b a walbro pump in tank direct replacment just make sure it aint a ebay on i got one of those a long tome ago lasted a 2 power runs

the best option if you are chasing just a lil more power with a good tune would b a walbro pump in tank direct replacment just make sure it aint a ebay on i got one of those a long tome ago lasted a 2 power runs

ive already bought the bosch one :spank:

I got a walbro with 3/4 tank syndrom. gonna aget it down further tonight, anyone know how? is it just the way I placed it back into the tank that it didnt drop down low enuff or somehting?

thast k i have a malpassi if you like but you would have to take it to a tuner if you have one cause they are fiddle lil pricks you should be able to make 220 with those mods already just get a sureg tank put your lift pump in

done

I got a walbro with 3/4 tank syndrom. gonna aget it down further tonight, anyone know how? is it just the way I placed it back into the tank that it didnt drop down low enuff or somehting?

with my walbro back in the day i made a extension with some good hose with the filter at the end she sat right at teh bottom easy as

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...