Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

has anybody have a picture of a standard rb25 rod they can post for me. reason being as i recently sold the standrd rods from my rb26 and the person has emailed me saying their mechanic is sayig they are rb25 not rb26 rods where i know for a fact they came out of my rb26. just want picture of the 2 to send to the person and compare. What visual difference is there between the 2. Anyones help would be appreciated.

Cheers, scott

here are pics of the rods that came out of my rb26

post-10986-1173361620.jpg

Edited by OFENSV
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159710-rb25-vs-26-rods/
Share on other sites

my gtr rods had this stamped on them 20-3<>05u41-1 and im pretty sure my stock rb25det rods had stamped on them 24-4<>05u41-2. does this help? i have photos with them side by side. if you would like the pics just pm me your email address and i will send them to you.

is that pic you sent me all rb25 rods? i cant tell the difference between them and 26 rods.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159710-rb25-vs-26-rods/#findComment-2969201
Share on other sites

I found a couple of pics but they are not the best.

rb25 rods - blurry pic

rb25 rod

Well i don't know if they help but regardless the pic you have shown is clearly of rb26 rods.

They are much thicker where the beam tapers into the big end and there is more material around the bolt holes.

If you compare the pics of the rb25 and rb26 rods you can clearly see the rb26 rod beams start to taper out wider closer to the little end than the rb25 rods. Using the protrusion on the side of the beams as a reference.

It's a shame you have to defend yourself against the word of an obviously incompetent "mechanic"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159710-rb25-vs-26-rods/#findComment-2969225
Share on other sites

here you go mate

post-13452-1174125499.jpg

thanks, i recieved an email the otherday from him saying he had taken them to another mechanic who confirmed they were RB26 rods and the guy showed him a 25 rod to compare the difference. He said the second machanic couldnt believe that the first mechanic said they were rb25 rods. Ohwel all good and sorted now:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159710-rb25-vs-26-rods/#findComment-2988059
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...