Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, found a bonnet i really like but it is only for a 180, i can get the vent section seperately but is it worth chopping the guts out of my bonnet and replacing it or just keep shopping??

If anyone has done this or has any hints greatly appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160579-bonnet-mods/
Share on other sites

Please be more specific in what you would like to do or this thread will be moved.

The fabrication section is for questions on how to make something, or showing the process and results of something you have made.

adding fibreglass sections to your existing steel bonnet can be done, as for trying to convert a 180 bonnet onto a skyline .. could be done but be very difficult.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160579-bonnet-mods/#findComment-2982319
Share on other sites

Sorry, i can get the vent section from the 180 bonnet separate, am after advice or other words of wisdom on how to remove a section of my current bonnet skin and replace it with the vented section, or should i get a fibreglass bonnet and graft it to that? I have had experiance with fibreglass before making sub boxes and such and think it could be easier to work with just fibreglass as apposed to fibre and metal

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160579-bonnet-mods/#findComment-2983591
Share on other sites

Sorry, i can get the vent section from the 180 bonnet separate, am after advice or other words of wisdom on how to remove a section of my current bonnet skin and replace it with the vented section, or should i get a fibreglass bonnet and graft it to that? I have had experiance with fibreglass before making sub boxes and such and think it could be easier to work with just fibreglass as apposed to fibre and metal

isnt doing that defectable?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160579-bonnet-mods/#findComment-2983628
Share on other sites

As far as i am aware you can change the skin as long as you dont modify the bracing underneath, or if you do it has to retain the strenth by the addition of more bracing,

But then again fitting a cf bonnet is defectable due to pedestrian hazards from shattering so i am not sure if they are going to go the same way with fibreglass

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160579-bonnet-mods/#findComment-2983767
Share on other sites

By the way i was qouted about $500 to get a combat vent moulded into my metal bonnet wiht out paint.

Can be dont at home too if u know bit. basically cut hole, rivet vent then mould wiht fibre glass, sand prime and paint.

thats pretty much all it would take, however i would personally have the vent tabs UNDER the skin of teh bonnet then after taking the underside of the overlap on the skin sanded back to metal, fibreglass the 2 pieces together . FB adheres to bar metal without issue. then once secure you just use a very small amount of bog/putty where the 2 pieces meet on the top of the bonnet to mould into one fluid piece ..

This way there is no Rise in the bonnets lines until the actual vent comes into place.. stops it lookig like it was just stuck on.

post some pics of the vents you want and we may be able to provide more specific ideas on this moulding process.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160579-bonnet-mods/#findComment-2984580
Share on other sites

Yeah was thinking the same thing, if its not 3 bits will make it into 3, gills definately need to go further back to match the 33, and prolly angled a bit more to match the natural line of the original bonnet, might move the main one back a bit too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160579-bonnet-mods/#findComment-2985452
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

The main thing when doing it is making sure the cuts are pretty much perfect otherwise its a pain in the arse to correct!!!

I found the one that i did it was easier to undercut the section you wanted first then go from there, all up with glass its a time consuming process getting it ridgy didge hence what people are quoted to have it done for them.

If it was my bonnet then i would recess the side vents further back and only get them with 3 intakes on the side and a single vent in the center, buts that me :P

Oh yeah and while i remember it make sure why you are laying the glass do it in as many stages as you can without going overboard and you shouldn't have to sand back as much to get a smoother finish. The other thing i did with mine was tint the coat to give me a better outline of where i was working and also to give it that "molded" look as well :whistling:

GMB

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160579-bonnet-mods/#findComment-3183978
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...