Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

have seen in other posts and read up about it and have seen kits for r33s where all the piping runs back to the original factory piping.

This includes the far side drivers side pipe where u usually have to cut a hole in the enginebay to feed the pipe through.

after seeing kits that dont require you to do that, and have the far pipe run "under" the cooler back to the passanger side factory pipe, i became interested in getting one of those pipes made up for me.

but after speaking to someone , they suggested that it wouldnt work cause something to do with "the pipe is to long for the pressure to go through".

Does anyone know if this will work, or there is some restrictions in doing this?

i mean there is kits out there that sell this "custom" type piping as part of the kit....so it must work...right?

so my question really is, will running the drivers side intercool pipe back under the cooler back to factory pipes work?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160641-fmic-kit-piping-question/
Share on other sites

have seen in other posts and read up about it and have seen kits for r33s where all the piping runs back to the original factory piping.

This includes the far side drivers side pipe where u usually have to cut a hole in the enginebay to feed the pipe through.

after seeing kits that dont require you to do that, and have the far pipe run "under" the cooler back to the passanger side factory pipe, i became interested in getting one of those pipes made up for me.

but after speaking to someone , they suggested that it wouldnt work cause something to do with "the pipe is to long for the pressure to go through".

Does anyone know if this will work, or there is some restrictions in doing this?

i mean there is kits out there that sell this "custom" type piping as part of the kit....so it must work...right?

so my question really is, will running the drivers side intercool pipe back under the cooler back to factory pipes work?

cheers

yes,i have a blitz lm front mount that uses the same piping, and have not had any problems at all

I have personally had pipes made up for htis configuration on my last r33, on my new r33 i have the kit which requires hte hole cut.

IMO i belive the first option using hte two stock engine bay pipes is better. I feel better response and better cooling performance.

So yes u can just buy any front mount and get the pipes made up, Gilmore racing developments did it to mine way a few years ago, they are in brisbane tho.

ok cool

getting the pipe made up isnt a problem as my family friend works in that kind of industry.

but just that someone said that it wouldnt work cause the distance....i didnt see how that made sence as the other pipe that requires the hole cut out is still a pritty long pipe.

just needed clarrification that doing this would work

cheers guys

I have personally had pipes made up for htis configuration on my last r33, on my new r33 i have the kit which requires hte hole cut.

IMO i belive the first option using hte two stock engine bay pipes is better. I feel better response and better cooling performance.

So yes u can just buy any front mount and get the pipes made up, Gilmore racing developments did it to mine way a few years ago, they are in brisbane tho.

I have a FMIC that has a near center core inlet and outlet. Having the inlet near centered allows a 180degree bend.

Mine is setup so that the hot air runs from the turbo obviously then under the fmic to the drivers side, 180degree bend and in to the core. The cooled air then has a short run to the cross over pipe.

Appears to work fine. I'm going to be selling it soon as I need something a little bigger to support 300rwkw odd.

This one appearently has a 1.5psi pressure drop at 580hp worth of air so it could probably do it but..... I want a newy. :P

Ahh yes.. When I had mine out giving it a clean I measured up and I couldn't see a way that the 600mm core would fit with a 180degree bend back underneath. Probably could but it looked possible with the 450 and obviously is. :wave:

I run a 450mmx300x90mm core with slightly off center positioned in/outs as I mentioned earlier.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...