Jump to content
SAU Community

BTW Various Performance Parts

Guest INASNT

By Guest INASNT,
in Wanted to Buy

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest INASNT

Guest INASNT

Posted
Posted

Ok i been getting all my parts together for my upgrade, but still need a few.

* 6 x 550cc side feed injectors for rb25det, or 6 x 550cc top feed injectors with custom fuel rail.

* Good EBC upto 2 bar resolution.

* Lightened Flywheel (Got 1 in mind but not 100% if i want that 1).

* Power FC with hand controller

* Good streetable clutch able to handle 250+rwkw. (Might be buying steves but he hasent got back to me as yet).

I have a baseline price i want to spend of these items, but if u have any of em for sale name your price and we can negotiate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16082-btw-various-performance-parts/
Share on other sites
dabigbolf Proficient

dabigbolf

Posted
Posted

i paid around $550 for my daiken brass button clutch. dont know if thats suitable. But its pretty easy to change over ya self instead of getting a place to install it for ya. let me know if you are intersted, and talk to the guy a got it off.

dabigbolf Proficient

dabigbolf

Posted
Posted

well if you are planning on the setup you are after. The full faced single plate, will die very easily, if you are planning to give it some abuse, which i think you will be. after all you dont spend all the money on the mods, and not give it some stick.

Example, guy with the full faced heavy duty organic killed his clutch with just 180rwkw, in 3 months. They are very similar to the stock clutch, with only 25% more clamping pressure. (around 25%).

if u got 250rwkw, your options are brass button, or twin plate. Unless you wanna be blowing clutches up all day long.

brass button is on/ off, but when u think about it. Riding any clutch, does cause damage. And once you get used to the brass button they are meant to be pretty damn good.

But then you got the twin plate, and then thats just goes to another level. and then it goes into the $1000 plus region.

find a friend who has a brass button clutch, or someone off the forums, and see how it is.

you know you cant go off what people say as gossiple. Only way to really know if it suits, is to try for yourself.

laters

Guest INASNT

Guest INASNT

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by dabigbolf

well if you are planning on the setup you are after.  The full faced single plate, will die very easily, if you are planning to give it some abuse, which i  think you will be.  after all you dont spend all the money on the mods, and not give it some stick.

Example, guy with the full faced heavy duty organic killed his clutch with just 180rwkw, in 3 months.  They are very similar to the stock clutch, with only 25% more clamping pressure.  (around 25%).

if u got 250rwkw, your options are brass button, or twin plate.  Unless you wanna be blowing clutches up all day long.  

brass button is on/ off,  but when u think about it.  Riding any clutch, does cause damage.  And once you get used to the brass button they are meant to be pretty damn good.  

But then you got the twin plate, and then thats just goes to another level.  and then it goes into the $1000 plus region.

find a friend who has a brass button clutch, or someone off the forums, and see how it is.

you know you cant go off what people say as gossiple.  Only way to really know if it suits, is to try for yourself.

laters

I have driven once about 1 year ago my friends r33 with a brass button clutch and i kept stalling it! I drive my car to and from work in peak hr traffic and sometimes behind trams and crap so it would be a ball breaker to drive it with the button clutch! A 9 puck single is capable of handling the power like whatisname is using with 260rwkw and matlowth with 300rwkw is using a daken extreme also without any problems

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...