Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.. I'd like to start by saying this is probably going to be a work/perve in progress.. I'll give you all a little bit of background into my job..

I work for a radiator wholesaler and manufacture in Christchurch, New Zealand, We make brass cores and alloy oil/inter coolers and also alloy radiators (we dont make radiator cores, only import)

I started out on sales for about a year, the head tech from the alloy department emo resigned and I got pushed into his job since they were stuck and needed someone with a bit of drive..

I've been in this job fabricating and welding for about 6 months now, I've gone from having 0 fab/welding skills to being semi decent.. Tig welding is getting better by the day..

Now, I have to do alot of practise, we do alot of jobs for showcars and so on.. small minute welds for tube to header plates for the oil/intercoolers and I got sick of making scrap just to throw in the bin.. so why not do my own stuff?

Hello race radiator! Hello oil cooler! :)

post-8270-1174386073.jpg <-- closeup of oil cooler core stacked, core is about 230x200x50mm

post-8270-1174386139.jpg <-- closeup of tube to header welds, these tubes are welded individually.. takes a long time on huge cores (1000x500x60 intercoolers etc)

post-8270-1174386151.jpg <-- closeup of core with tank material sat ontop of it, tank/core has not been prepped for welding yet.

post-8270-1174386948.jpg <-- close up of tube to header welds after being welded, only had 3 tiny leaks and they were in the corners (where you start/stop) of the welds.. not bad

post-8270-1174386963.jpg <-- closeup of the prepped tank material, each side has been bevelled as when I weld it on the outside, I feed the amps in along with the filler rod (5535 hi tensile)

After we have it at the tube to header stage we chalk and dye pen test.. basically I spray chalk (LD3 Developer) onto the outside of the header where the welds are, On the tubes towards the header (about 15mm back from the header) I carefully drop dye penetrant.. this stuff is gold, we leave it on dye pen for about a day for oil coolers, it will show up the tiniest of leaks.. I didnt manage to take a picture of my core being dye pen'd but I have one of another to give you an idea..

post-8270-1174386971.jpg <-- oil cooler core on dye pen, this is another I welded (no leaks at all) apart from when I ground the outside of the tube to headers back so the tank would fit, this introduced a leak as you can see, the red in the inside of the tubes is a light on the other side of the core..

post-8270-1174386977.jpg <-- closeup of the leak, it was an easy fix, clean off with Acetone re weld and regrind and re test..

post-8270-1174386984.jpg <-- core shot showing the dye on the tubes, its messy and does stain your hands.. but we wouldnt be without it.. if you leave the dye on there over the weekend.. it will just keep growing until it drys up..

So, that's my oil cooler, as of today (didnt take pics, sorry i'll take some with my digicam) it was completed, only leaks I had were on the ends of the tanks where I start/stopped.. easy fizzers to fix..

it's basically just got -10 fittings on each side of the core.. simple oil cooler but they are really really strong..

I'll also do a writeup on my race radiator that I did.. I dont have build pictures for it only of the end result, but that's ok.. I'll build my self a crossflow double pass 57mm thick race core soon which i'll take pictures of along the way..

I never said I was a welder, i'm just bumbling along, but every day I can notice my welding skills are getting better, I'm now looking back on past jobs i've done and going "eugh" because I know I can do better once my technique gets more refined..

Comments / criticisms are welcome..

Btw, all my welding is done with a watercooled Miller Synchrowave 400 jobbie.. 400 amps of tigging power.. it's great :)

post-8270-1174386956.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161236-my-90degree-career-change/
Share on other sites

Hey mate, good job. Like the ideas, though was just wondering, those"oil cooler cores" aren't they intercooler cores??

Would've thought the flow charecteristics of different liquids to be different(air being liquid). dunno not in the industry, just my opinion

Also thought the cores are normally ally braze welded(not too sure what filler or that) not fusion welded.

Reason i say is that in all of the ally intercoolers and radiators, none are welded except the end tanks on to the tube tops.

Cheers

Robb

Hey mate, good job. Like the ideas, though was just wondering, those"oil cooler cores" aren't they intercooler cores??

Would've thought the flow charecteristics of different liquids to be different(air being liquid). dunno not in the industry, just my opinion

Also thought the cores are normally ally braze welded(not too sure what filler or that) not fusion welded.

Reason i say is that in all of the ally intercoolers and radiators, none are welded except the end tanks on to the tube tops.

Cheers

Robb

Hiya,

These are oil cooler cores, using oil cooler tubes, our intercooler (tube + fin) cores are alot different, the tubes are alot bigger.. We have used these oil cooler cores for intercoolers in the past with good success.. but 90% of our product is aimed at industrial side of thing.. i.e very durable.. still performs great though.

We weld the tanks on as well as the tube to header welds, you're thinking of how most alloy products are made (basically heating them till pre melt stage and fusing them together) this is just another way of doing it except we're welding instead of heating (same principle, tho)

Hiya,

These are oil cooler cores, using oil cooler tubes, our intercooler (tube + fin) cores are alot different, the tubes are alot bigger.. We have used these oil cooler cores for intercoolers in the past with good success.. but 90% of our product is aimed at industrial side of thing.. i.e very durable.. still performs great though.

We weld the tanks on as well as the tube to header welds, you're thinking of how most alloy products are made (basically heating them till pre melt stage and fusing them together) this is just another way of doing it except we're welding instead of heating (same principle, tho)

Ah makes sense then.

Industrial oil cooler core. okey.

Yah a lot of fun welding small stuff on ehy?? My first intercooler was a water/air that i made using 10mm ally tube and welded end caps, then the body then the end tanks. 72 tubes, so 144 welds just for the core. Wow, took 2 weeks.

It didn't have any internal diffusers, so heat tranfer would've been crap, ended up chucking it.

But mate like the idea.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...