Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeh i havent found it too be that bad! it seems smooth and stuff but i guess i havent driven with anything else before!! maybe once i get my car off DEFECTT i could let one of u take her for a spin to see what u think? but yeh she seems ok.

thanks for the replies fellas alot of suggestions, im going to go with getting a clutch myself from sliding performance, their prices are good. unless i can find the same one elsewhere.

5puk button clutch kit from SP

seems like a good price, 500 delivered, and plenty for the power I'm hoping to achieve.

Is there anything else I'll need to buy along with the clutch... i JUST changed my f**king oil (gbox) to redline lightweight and its beutiful stuff and i want to still use it as most likely itll still be blue when it comes out.

whats wrong wid you bitches....too scared to get your hands dirty? :P:O

do it yourself and spend the cash you save on a carton of piss to suck back while doin it.

its time consuming but f**k its only nuts and bolts.

button clutches arent that bad.

Edited by Ryanrb25
while your at it send your 5 speed to sims, and with the money you get buy a 30 pack of draught, then chuck a 25 auto in it and never worry about clutches again...

Just rear tyres due to those seamless first, second third 160km/h+ on the spot no brake burnouts. :unsure:

i got quoted 400 dollars for clutch fitment, machined flywheel, rear main seal replacement.

i wouldnt go there then it cost $400 to fit a clutch to my car yours should be about $250-$300 max

im booking mine into kent brake and clutch this week they fitted my last one and did a good job

if you want a quote ring tim on 8445 2055 after 8:30-4:30

The RB25 rear main seals are the same as a RB30. Cheap as chips. Also super easy to replace. A few bolts and its off, then slide on the new.

Machining of the flywheel, I can't remember what thats generally worth.

Either way $100 to machine a flywheel and replace a rear main seal, probably around the mark.

i wouldnt go there then it cost $400 to fit a clutch to my car yours should be about $250-$300 max

im booking mine into kent brake and clutch this week they fitted my last one and did a good job

if you want a quote ring tim on 8445 2055 after 8:30-4:30

i got quoted 400 dollars for clutch fitment, machined flywheel, rear main seal replacement.

i said the above. did your cost of 250-300 include the rear main seal or the flywheel being machined?

so that means, 300 for cluctch and 100 for flywheel and rear main seal.

i got quoted 400 dollars for clutch fitment, machined flywheel, rear main seal replacement.

i said the above. did your cost of 250-300 include the rear main seal or the flywheel being machined?

so that means, 300 for cluctch and 100 for flywheel and rear main seal.

yes mine is fitment seal and machining

i went in today to get firm quote $450 fitting and $490 Xtreme HD clutch i just picked up then went and saw Brad Fox

remember pauly mine is AWD takes longer to do and is harder a little thats why i think yours should be alot cheaper than $400

is there anywhere in adelaide I can get a clutch for ~550 dollars and then fit it myself/ cheap fitment around.

Any help would be great, thanks.

I know its not of any help....

but I just bought a 2nd hand ORC Ogura Super Single with Cr Mo Flywheel from Terry @ Kansai Automotive for that $$amount :happy:

Top bloke that he is, even drove it down to Nisswreck (who are doing my replacement trans) himself.

Two thumbs up for Nisswreck and their service so far also.

More info please.

Wha happen?

Well, you see....

The noisey box was going to be replaced anyhows.... I was just putting it off for no good reason.

Driving on my way to lunch with Missa on Tues, clutch pedal started getting progressively sloppier and sloppier. Until, nothing at all. Just made it to Mel's work, pulled over and the clutch wouldnt disengage.

All of this = shagged clutch slave cylinder, which leaked all the clutch fluid along my route up fullarton road. I couldnt diengage the clutch once pulled over, nor could I get it out of gear.

can i get soemthing straigth here... my clutch is burnt out, it still driveable, but u need it hit boost for it to grip properly. all im looking at is a clutch replacement right? nothing else unusual is happenin with the car apart from a clutch odour.

Thats right just a simple clutch replacement.

Check out the slave cyl, and pivot ball while your under there.

If your after a slave/master cyl contact All clutch and brake listed in the workshop sticky. The blokes owned an R33 for the past 6years odd and knows what fits what.

For example... Slave cyl for mine was ~$38, master cyl was $75 new.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...