Jump to content
SAU Community

Galant Vr-4 Compliance

Spangers

By Spangers,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Spangers Community Regular

Spangers

Posted
Posted

Hey guys

Im looking to sell my car and then I will be in the market for a new car. I have been looking at some import sites and there have been a few Galants comming up. After doing some research they look pretty damn good on paper (V6 2.5L TT 4WD) and I was wondering if any1 has driven one and also if they can be complied in Adelaide yet?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162901-galant-vr-4-compliance/
Share on other sites
Spangers Community Regular

Spangers

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Dude

dont let compliance in naother state seem a hassle quite easy both my last imported cars had to be complied elsewhere

Easy!!

Yeh I guess so, the Galant would be somethin pretty different, I think its worth a shot. Can anyone tell me the name and maybe website of the place that in QLD that can do the compliance as the link posted wont work for me.

Cheers

Spangers Community Regular

Spangers

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Just get the importer sort it all out and thell them you want it delivered to your adress in SA! Let them do the running around as thats what you pay them for!

Yeh thats what I would do, dunno if I will go through who I did last time though. Is there any good importers locally that dont want an arm and a leg for commision?

galant-vr4.jpg

They look tuff as!

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted

My brother-in-law has been looking at getting a legnum for a while now. He's still toying with the idea but not yet convinced he can afford it etc. Parts would be a major issue for him.

But they are now available for full compliance in australia so he's very tempted right now :wave:

I reckon they're a very nice wagon, probably the fastest (maybe even the best?) sports wagon in its class/price range among the japanese imports - I'm mainly comparing to the Nissan Stagea RS4 (260RS would eat it up) and the Subie Legacy. The Legnum interior looks pretty plush but I still think the exterior looks way too much like a magna wagon. Still, my brother-in-law owns a magna sedan now and is a big mitsi fan so its a step up from his current car in any case.

Things I like about the legnum are the interior, performance, and I'd imagine they'd handle pretty well too.

Things I dont like are the 4WD system, its just a fixed torque split ratio, and has a front bias (engine is east-west, like most(all?) mitsubishi's and therefore it drives the front wheels primarily). Sure it works, but the stagea/skyline GTR/GTS4 awd is a far superior system.

The looks are ok, but not really my cup of tea. On the whole though I'd have to say - very nice wagon choice :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...