Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

After months of intermittent flickering/bouncing of my tacho needle....its seems as though my tacho has finally had enough and wont run past 2000rpm any more!

I've read the DIY guide by 'pushead' on removing the instrumentation cluster and it seems to be fairly easy.....btw awsome guide (lots of detail an great pics)...cheers.

I still have a few question though -

1) The guide finishes with the cluster coming out of the dash, but still connected.....what happens next? Are the wires running to the cluster - soldered? or do they use connnectors?

2) When replacing the cluster, do you need to calibrate it? How do u go about this calibration proceedure?

3) Does anyone know where i can buy a 'new' cluster? or can u only buy 2nd hand ones? How much am i expecting to pay?

4) Do you know of any instrumentation experts where i can get the work done? How much roughly am i looking at? (I dont know if i will do the work myself or not? It depends on how much stuffing around is involved and how cheap it is - to simply get the work done by someone else.)

Cheers,

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163320-r33-instrumentation-cluster/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

After months of intermittent flickering/bouncing of my tacho needle....its seems as though my tacho has finally had enough and wont run past 2000rpm any more!

I've read the DIY guide by 'pushead' on removing the instrumentation cluster and it seems to be fairly easy.....btw awsome guide (lots of detail an great pics)...cheers.

I still have a few question though -

1) The guide finishes with the cluster coming out of the dash, but still connected.....what happens next? Are the wires running to the cluster - soldered? or do they use connnectors?

2) When replacing the cluster, do you need to calibrate it? How do u go about this calibration proceedure?

3) Does anyone know where i can buy a 'new' cluster? or can u only buy 2nd hand ones? How much am i expecting to pay?

4) Do you know of any instrumentation experts where i can get the work done? How much roughly am i looking at? (I dont know if i will do the work myself or not? It depends on how much stuffing around is involved and how cheap it is - to simply get the work done by someone else.)

Cheers,

:P

To answer your questions in order...

1) The wires to the cluster use connectors - just need to pop them out

2) I didn't calibrate my speedo when I installed my Nismo dash, but i did do some sanity checks - i.e checked the speed displayed on the speedo against the speed readout on my PFC and also got my g/f to drive next to my car and compared my speedo with the speed her car was displaying at 60, 80 and 100km/h. My speedo was pretty much spot on (give or take), so didn't bother calibrating, although I would've done so if it was substantially out.

3) I doubt that you'll be able to get a new dash cluster, although if they were available, then a Nissan dealer would be the best bet (they may be able to order in). If you're after a second hand dash, I have one in perfect working condition that came out of my S2 R33 that I'd sell for $150 (plus postage).

4) Replacing the dash is pretty easy - the DIY guide is excellent and you should be able to do it yourself without any problems, so you shouldn't need to pay anyone to do it for you.

Cheers :happy:

If you pull the cluster apart its possible to find whats wrong with it.

There could be a few 'dry' connections where the female connector is connected to the circuit board. you can tell this by looking at them and if the solder looks as if it has been broken.

This happened a to my pulsar when I had it. Just had re-solder those connections and bob's your aunty.

You might have a different problem though.

ps. why was this posted in the DIY section aswell?

cheers guys :huh:

i think ill take a look at it myself first...see if i can work out why its playing up, then go from there.

p.s. im not sure why this post appears in the DIY section as well - the first time i tried to post it, i accidently posted it in the DIY section and a message came up saying i couldnt post it in that section (the post was cancelled!) So i decided to post it here instead . Now its appearing in both??? I dunno? :happy:

It appears as though i have lost my copy of the DIY guide pushead posted about removing the instrumentation cluster!

Ive searched though the entire forum and cant seem to find a link that works (there is a DIY post with a link to pusheads guide - but the link doesnt work!) :)

Just wondering if anyone could re-post or re-link the guide....it would come in very handy, as i was planning on having a play with it tommorrow.

Cheers,

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
    • Hope you had a great time here in our tiny country.   The JDM scene we have here is quite small, it's mostly BMW, Volkswagen with burble tunes haha. But the few JDM cars we do have in the scene are pretty nice. Some of my friends drive cool s14's too. Both built engines, red one makes abt 500, blue one abt 400 i think?
    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
×
×
  • Create New...