Jump to content
SAU Community

Largest Rims That Fit Under Stock S1 Stagea?

rubba

By rubba,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

rubba Enthusiast

rubba

Posted
Posted

Can someone be so kind as to inform me of the largest 18" rims that will fit under a stock series 1 stag. It is still in lift kit mode, so some form of lowering is also going to happen as well.

I am looking at some ford au/ba rims and I'd rather find out what would be pushing it before I go see any.

AFAIK standard offset is for s1 stags is 35, yes?

I have looked searched through some other threads but most of the stuff appeared vary a fair bit and a lot was for series 2 stags.

yokotas13 Mentor

yokotas13

Posted
Posted

um

depends on how much massaging you want to do

I had 18x9 +0 front

18x10 +20

if you get an 18x10 +10 it will clear with almost 0* camber, but you need a alrge fender roll qhich i didnt want to do

However if you go with 18x9 +10 or +5 it will sit almost the same ( a few MM difference) with 20+MM more interior room so you wont hit your coilovers like i did

on the front you can afford to go with 10s +10 or so as long as they clear brakes if you have tension rods ...but id reccomend a PS cooler if your going to...as 10s put a huge strain on your PS system

For the rear two arms are a must

Toe Arm and camber arm

if you can get the other one (traction i think its called....i dunno) then get it

Use all S14 model arms, you can find them for 90-150 each arm depending on where you look.....

yokotas13 Mentor

yokotas13

Posted
Posted

forgot to add

if you go lower than 18x9 +0 you will need to heavily roll your front fenders as well.

i put a slight roll on mine, but it has too much camber, which is why i went with an 18x9 +20 all around so i can just space the rear a little bit.

this is what it looks like with an 18x9 +0 18x0 +20

437419130_41ae176d15.jpg

rubba Enthusiast

rubba

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I'm not looking to fill it out to the guards absolute limit, I just want some decent rims that aren't going to cost my nuts to replace the stocko ones.

Hrm I have 225/50R16 tyres on the car, if I go to 245/40R18 thats surely going to put the speedo out somewhat?... is my real speed going to be faster or slower than the speedo is indicating?

Also after looking under the arches, the rear will be fine, but the front has some suspension part that sits within a few inches of top of the tyre, is that going to be a problem at all?

Last question, +38 offset as opposed to the +35, that will bring the face of the rim slightly closer to guards? or is it going the other way?

Edited by rubba
66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted
ah I have no idea, sorry. I have 18's on mine, but no idea on the offsets bla bla bla cause I don't know what 'offset' is :sick:

It reallyhelps if you are of the opposite sex? LOFL

PS> Nor do I

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...