Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Don't see why it shouldn't be a straight "unplug dead engine, plug in new engine".

The oil pump seems to be one of the few short-comings of the Nissan RB-series engines. I'm led to believe that the securing bolts tend to work loose (from heat / cool cylcing), then oil can be pumped out the gap, so not all the oil lubricates the engine.

The oil pump seems to be one of the few short-comings of the Nissan RB-series engines. I'm led to believe that the securing bolts tend to work loose (from heat / cool cylcing), then oil can be pumped out the gap, so not all the oil lubricates the engine. [/b]

Yep this is exactly what happened to my mates rb20. The securing bolts worked loose , had no oil pressure, engine died.

Guest tigersharkr33

there is no diffrence,i meant that you have to reloom it,the engine is the same,but the ecu and the loom is diffrent.because it is newer version.if you check with apexi power fc you will see that the part for the r32 is diffrent with the part of the r33 as well the r34,but everything can be done,check with mick at http://www.tilbrook.com.au/

he will help you.

How long does it take with no oil pressure to kill the engine? I'm going to keep a closer eye on my gauge now, and check the pump bolts in my upcoming service. Just as soon as someone tells me where the oil pump is :)

Hi JimX you asked .......

"Just as soon as someone tells me where the oil pump is"

Front of the crankshaft behind the harmonic balancer, lower cambelt cover, cambelt, and cambelt pulley. The oil pump bolts to the block and the front part of the sump bolts to the oil pump. The radiator has to come out before you can get to all this stuff, plus the belts, covers and pulleys.

I reckon it would take you a full day to remove everything, check the bolt tension and put it all back.

Lesson, tighten the bolts properly and use locktite. Do it right, do it once.

Hope that helps.

Ye gods, I think I'll just wait for it to work itself loose. Are there any warning signs that your oil pump is falling out?

How long after the oil pressure light comes on does the engine kill itself? You'd also have to be worried about a hot turbo cooking itself with an instant shut-down of the engine if you've been driving it hard.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
×
×
  • Create New...