Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Traction is a prob so a clutch that could be ridden a bit would be better but i dont know if you can get a clutch you can ride that still wont wear out

$750 is a bit steap for me apperently daiken do brassy's for 500

i gotta decide soon though it's startin to slip really bad though a commondore almost kept up with me. hehe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16368-brassy-clutches/#findComment-336046
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Bl4cK32

I've got a brassy in my 32, and have had no trouble with it. It is true, you do have to give it sum then dump it. Only thing its a bitch in carparks, or goin slow in general....not that I go slow.

hey black32 ive got a balck32 too hehe:D

i dont mind so much the parking and the slow driving hassels it will cause that jus goes with the territory likethe rest of the hassals that go along with hi-po cars.

Not that im complaining or anything i wouldnt have it any onther way

My biggest concern is take-offs as traction is a problem already

do you find that your tiptoeing on take offs or are you still able to drill it off the mark???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16368-brassy-clutches/#findComment-337548
Share on other sites

I can take off like normal, without tiptoeing it, as well as drilling it whenevr I want.

Give yourself a month to get used to it though.

BTW I've got my car in the shop now coz it split the clutch hose due to it being old, and the clutch is heavy as, so replace it when you do the upgrade.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16368-brassy-clutches/#findComment-337750
Share on other sites

When i installed my puck clutch i wish instead i had installed an R32 GTR OE clutch. Im sure it would hold the power of stock turbo, even up to 200kw with small aftermarket turbo.

It would have all the driveability of stock unit, handle some moderate abuse (any clutch can be fried) and would have been cheaper.

Whether the puck clutch is that much harder on the drivetrain or not, i dont know. I suspect they are as they sure as hell sound/feels like it, so cant imagine the gearbox/driveshafts/diff are immune to additional loading transmitted thru the drivetrain.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16368-brassy-clutches/#findComment-337809
Share on other sites

brass button clutches can destroy diff's, axles, tailshafts, and gearboxes.

i am getting a 1 piece tailshaft, and if i blow up my diff, i will just get a mini spool.

but when you are building a performance car the brass button cluth does give u better acces to the power.

either clutch is good for the power though.

just like saying how longs a piece of string.

many answers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16368-brassy-clutches/#findComment-337856
Share on other sites

i have never driven a twin plate, but a friend with a r32 gtr has a twin plate, and he says it is also on/off.

you cant ride any clutch and expect it to be good for it. But the full face clutches are just easier to do it in.

twin plates are very expensive, and not really warranted for say 200rwkw. if you can afford it twin plates are better than brass buttons, but not really warranted unless you got a hipo motor to back it up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16368-brassy-clutches/#findComment-337870
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...